Thursday, January 26, 2012

Queek Headtaker finished!

If there is one Skaven "Hero" that truly lives up to that word, it is probably Queek Headtaker, of Clan Mors. Aside from having some pretty good stats for a Skaven, I like the fact that he is just simply an evil killer!

Hope to have a step-by-step painting guide up over the weekend, but in the meantime, a few photos! (more comments below)

The original Games Workshop model:
Copyright Games Workshop: 
As you can see, although similar to the Games Workshop colour scheme used for packaging and on their website it isn't quite the same. I originally intended the Mechrite Red used on the armour to be a darker base colour, onto which I would add Blood Red. However, after getting through the washes the Mechrite Red started to grow on me. As it is darker, it seems (to me) to suit the Skaven more than a brighter shade.

Like the GW model, I used a lighter colour on the cloth between the legs, in this case a Bleached Bone (washed with Gryphonne Sepia) and then drybrushed in lighter shades.

Finally, on "my" Queek I have part of the cloth edge to the armour in Ice Blue, which ties in a bit with my Warlord Clan - quite subtly I think.

I've mentioned this before, but my limited Finecast experience so far has been pretty dire...
...and regrettably, this Queek Headtaker casting only reinforces that experience. Painting the model has only made the poor casting more noticeable. Although difficult to see in my photos, the horns on the helmet are quite deformed, and where the crest joins the main part of the helmet is also odd, with some bubbles.

Given more time I might come back and file them back to decent points and repaint them, but I'll leave them alone for now.

Back Banner:
I left this off totally. 
Holding the model together before gluing I found it difficult to reconcile just how large the back-banner is with my image of Queek! In battle, I figure him being incredibly fast - a strange combination of Skaven skittishness with deadly efficiency, something that I couldn't really imagine with that huge back-banner. Maybe his back-banner is removed by an underling before battle?
Using Green Stuff, I covered the hole on his back where it would have been positioned.

As always, all comments and criticism welcome!



p.s. I added Queek to my Warlord Clan page.
EDIT: I have now added a "How to Paint Queek Headtaker" page


  1. i like it , u seem to improve in ur painting skills.. im thinking of taking a finecast queek for a nice conversion

  2. @dancing platypuss - glad you like it! Queek is a great model.
    Based on my experience so far with Finecast you might want to take a careful look in the shop at any item before you buy. It is difficult to see through the back of the package, but just in case there are any really large bubbles I think it is worth double-checking before purchase. (To be fair many people will claim this problem is rare.)

  3. hey! yeah i got the finecast queek... and sttarted de conversion... but still i dont like finecast at all...:(

    1. Is there a problem with the model you have? (bubbles etc.) or it just that you don't like finecast in general?

  4. Finecast is terrible, between 3 separate queek models and 3 separate doomflayers (2 of each being replacements sent to me by gw due to the first ones) all of them have been deformed, warped, bubble-ridden and miscast so badly that it took hours, after picking the least messed up pieces from all of them, to re-sculpt, fill in, and fix up one single model of each that could be used. Also the "hot water bending" technique the gw people will tell you to use to fix all the horrible warping from the resin being cooled way too fast DOES NOT WORK. The resin will bend but it will always revert back to it's original warped shape after an hour or so, even after being 'fixed' multiple times.

    1. Arghhh, really sorry to hear that - it sounds like VERY bad luck. A lot of blogs that I have visited seem to have plenty of people who haven't had any problems. Did this happen soon after the release? Or recently? (Some say that the first few batches must have been very bad but that things have improved.)
      Interesting to hear how the "hot water bending" DOESN'T work for you though...
      ...something to bear in mind for the future. I guess I would always check any Finecast blister pack VERY closely from now on!
      I hope your luck improves...

    2. Queek was back in January and I just got the 3rd of the deformed Doomflayers yesterday. Unfortunately the nearest actual shop that sells Warhammer is 350 miles away and the only way to get there is by plane (I'm in bush Alaska) so my only option is to order online and thus can't check them (though for the money you pay there should at least be a dude in the warehouse who does that for you before they send you a 3rd almost identically problematic model). It is nice that they replace the models free of charge when they're defective, but at this point I've given up. Usually shipped stuff gets here within a week and a half at the most but the GW stuff is absurdly slow like it's hand delivered to the post office by some dude who walked and hitchhiked from the UK or something. The original Doomflayer was a valentines day gift so it's taken fully 2 months to have exactly 0 useable models. meh. I'm sure some finecast is decent but I sure haven't seen it.

  5. Oh right, btw, great blog man, I recently painted up a Doomwheel and am soon to be doing a Queek and some plague monks. since GW took down all the old stage by stage guides on their site yours, especially with explanation of the mixes you use for everything, has really been nice to look at when I'm looking at a model and thinking "how do i get it too look right?" You rock. Keep it up.

    1. Thanks Zerixar. In 2011 I blogged about some of the GW links and just today I went back and checked through to see what I could find. I have an updated list here:
      Like you say, many of the articles are gone now - I guess because the new paints are out.
      I am glad that the site is useful. I am trying to find a way to improve the guides (I think they are too long, and often need more pictures) if you have any ideas please let me know.
      Thanks again for looking,


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