Sunday, January 22, 2012

Complete Deathmaster Snikch!

*Squeek!*

Deathmaster Snikch
I finished up the Deathmaster last night and thought I would share a few snaps today. Overall I'm torn between thinking it came out OK and thinking "hmmm, could do better".

Anyway, there were a couple of things that I did differently here than before. 

The first one was to use crushed coral on the base in addition to sand. Obviously not a big thing, but I do agree that just sand and flock can look a bit dull. The crushed coral, when used sparingly (2-3 pieces seems right) adds a very nice rocky texture without being too intrusive. I got this technique from reading the "How To Paint Miniatures" website (an excellent resource for basic techniques when starting out)
Fortunately, my kids recently started keeping fish, so crushed coral is abundant around here!

Secondly, I did more highlighting on the tail. I am not sure if I am happy with how it turned out, as it looks a bit too bright in places, but it may grow on me.

Thirdly, I did a couple of layers of highlights and then washes. Usually I do all the base colours first and then washes. I don't really see a big change, but that could just be me!

In terms of colour, I went with dark shades of Mordian Blue on the inside of the cloak, as I didn't want too much black, despite the fact that Snikch is an assassin extraordinaire.

Here are some more pics:
Base colours only.
Base detail: Note deformed toes on left feet...
Detail

Tail and cape
 If you look closely at the rat emerging from the armour in the bottom image you can see that it has no face. This is one of the casting problems that I described the other day. Not noticeable from tabletop distance at all, but still annoying. (Yes, to a certain extent my fault as I could have fixed these with greenstuff.)


(EDIT: Just added "How to Paint Deathmaster Snikch" painting guide.)
All constructive comments and criticism welcome of course! 


Cheers,
*Squeek*


p.s. I couldn't find a painting guide for Deathmaster Snikch on the Games Workshop site, so I will try to post a step by step guide in the next few days.




Saturday, January 21, 2012

More filin' n' cuttin'. Goblin Skaven slaves update 2

*Squeek*



So yesterday I started to put together a unit of Goblin Skaven slaves. These gobbo spearman models came from the 4th edition starter set (thanks for the info yesterday Ian!) As I discovered after a days work, they still all looked too uniform due to the static poses.



After sleeping on this problem, I decided today to reduce the number of spears. 
Firstly, I thought that would make them look immediately less uniform. 
Secondly, this would allow me to do more conversions from the bits box with handweapons. Finally, I reckon this would be more in keeping with slaves too.


So here they are after 3 rounds of choppin' and changin'. (Sorry the pics aren't great.)


1. As assembled. Facing diagonally.
2. At the end of day 1. Too many spears!
3. More hand-weapons, less spears.
Overall I think it had worked. The unit feels more rag-tag (at least compared to yesterday). What do you reckon? (Sorry the pics aren't great)


In addition to filing each and every single gobbo head smooth (!) I also spent some more time on individual conversions in the hope that this would give the unit more character and break up the outline if the unit as a whole.
Gobin wiv' special headgear.
'ome made spearrgghh
nice for cuttin' and choppins.
no cleva capshun ere.
Wiv man-trap.
curly-wurly blade.
big choppa
Although I am no great modeler, I am actually quite happy with one or two of them as I think have taken on a character of their own.


I reckon that with the addition of some rats to bases and shoulders I should be done and ready to start adding texture to the bases, and then move onto priming. To take a break I will then go back to Snikch and Queek. (Snikch has some washes on now, so I should finish him tomorrow.)


*Squeek*

Friday, January 20, 2012

Goblin Skaven Slaves. Part 1.

Copyright: Goblin image by8Hungry

*Squeek*


"Green things, your time has come to serve a great-great cause. The Great Horned Rat calls his children to war, and all those that hear the call must answer! Forward...and feel the lash!"


So I have read about (and occasionally seen) on the web "counts as Skaven slaves" units made up of other models. Popular options might include models that look raggedy enough (Empire flagellants) or fit neatly into Skaven lore. Good examples of the latter would be Goblins (as small, or smaller than your average clanrat) and Dwarves ("hates, HATES them we does", said in best Gollum voice.)

When a colleague cleared out his attic and offered me some WFB models he found I offered to take them. What I got was 2-3 boxes worth of old Goblin archers, Spearmen and Orcs, about 35-40 of each. Can anyone identify what edition they are?


At the time I wasn't really sure what to do with them. While Squeek and Snikch were drying today I decided to get out the greenskins. Despite having recently said that I would try to avoid doing large units for a while I immediately wanted to see if i could make these guys into a unit of slaves.
Goblin spearmen
Goblin archers
Some immediate problems presented themselves:

  1. Every single model was based at a diagonal. Therefore every single model faced sideways when ranked-up.
  2. As an old set, each model was identical in pose and main armament (spear and shield). Great for goblins, not so good for slaves.
  3. Spears...a forest of ramrod straight, identical spears. Most sources I read say don't bother with spears on slaves, so I certainly didn't want all of them like that.

So, after opening my bits box and getting out my tools I decided to see what I could do to make them into the rabble I wanted.


Here is how I spent my afternoon.

A.) Cutting each gobbo off their bases with a craft knife, I then filed down the feet and bases and glued them on facing front and center.



B.) I removed 70% of the original goblin shield and replaced them with shields from the latest style clanrats (triangular) and previous generation clanrats (circular).


C.) I clipped, chopped and glued my way through an assortment of spears, hand weapons, pouches and banners to try to vary the unit somewhat.



Here are some examples:











So guess what? I FAILED to make the unit the way I wanted it to...





I think the problem is that even doing all that, the body position is just too static...
...and they are ALL like that, so you can't escape the feeling of immobility that it brings. Also, it would be too time consuming to do something with the shield arm on models where I have removed the shield, but right now those arms just kind of sit there looking weird.


Finally, they look too well-armed (and a little too LONG-armed in some cases) to really be slaves.


What to do? Four possible solutions come to mind:
  1. Try mingling some archers in there to mix things up a bit.
  2. Add a couple of packmasters.
  3. Add some rats to some of the gobbo bases.
  4. Create some kind of unit filler of a reasonable size. This would break up the visual profile of the unit and add some appropriate Skaven "DNA" (a spare rat ogre holding onto chains running to the gobbos?)   

Any ideas out there that might be simple to do for a relatively inexperienced modeller like myself?


Cheers,


*Squeek*

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Deathmaster Snikch Finecast Update, Bubbles,and More!

*Squeek*

Managed to get some early work done on Queek Headtaker and Deathmaster Snikch, as well as some assembly on Scar-Skath.

I hadn't worked with any Citadel Finecast before this, so I was very interested to see how this new material would be to work with. 
  • Would it live up to GW's claims about crisp detail?
  • How would the moulding be?
  • What kind of preparation would be necessary?

Well, first impressions upon opening Deathmaster Snikch and Queek were a mix of the good and the bad.

First, the good:

-Detail is quite good.
-Easy to glue.
-Easy to file.

That's about it.

Next, the bad:
Bubbles...
-Bubbles. Some significant detail lost from the casting process meant lots of time working with Green Stuff to fill in unsightly gaps. Maybe I was just unlucky, but these missing chunks seemed to be in particularly obvious places - not something I have ever noticed on metal or other plastics. 
Sure, I have seen plenty of gaps between parts before, but these were whole areas missing on limbs etc.

-Fiddly to remove from the sprue. (Lots of bits that take a bit of time to work out whether they are part of the model or not.

-Thinner areas of the material felt very prone to breakage. (I didn't do anything extreme to see if they were!) A case in point being the Deathmaster's cape.

-Detail didn't seem that much better than metal or regular plastic to me. In fact, some fine detail was broken or miscast.

Hmmm, not so good to my eyes, but what do you think? Let's take a look at the Deathmaster first...
(Sorry that these are a bit difficult to see. I don't have time today to edit the photos with arrows and pointers etc.)
Notice the hole in the leg, above the knee.
Missing material in the center of the cape.
Rats head on the bottom facing us (just above base) is deformed and missing
 On Queek Headtaker, nothing quite as serious, but still annoying considering GW's claims to amazing detail...
Front legs of the rat on the base - at right - miscast/ partly missing.
MASSIVE ISSUES? DEAL BREAKERS?


No. 
In fact, some might argue they are all part of the hobbyist's life. 


That is fine, but as GW charges (I seem to remember) significantly more for these than their metal equivalents, I can't think that the quality being worse would be acceptable to most people. Personally, I want to paint and display/ wargame, not patch and fix. 
BTW, although many people say that metal has less detail, it doesn't seem to be a huge difference to me.


...but maybe I am just disappointed at the time of writing from having to get busy with the Green Stuff...






(It was still sticky at the time of the photo, so I will file it a bit tomorrow.)


Anyway, I also started to work with Scar-Skath, from the Banebeasts range, who I am planning to use as a "counts as Vermin Lord". If you remember, this was the model where I didn't receive a base with the kit when I received it from Maelstrom Games (but I did receive the run-around before everything worked out just fine.)


Note the replacement Micro-Art base that in the end Maelstrom kindly sent me.







 And although I had to greenstuff some gaps on Scar, these were gaps between parts, not filling in chunks of missing model!


What have your experiences been with Finescast and resin models in general?


Cheers,


*Squeek*





Monday, January 16, 2012

Skaven reinforcements - completed!

*Squeek*
Following a very quiet Christmas (in painting terms at least...) I spent some of last week working on more Skaven Clanrats to reinforce my current core units. I managed to finish these up tonight.


By themselves, 15 clanrats don't add up to much. However, put them with my other Clanrats and I am now up to about 135 Island of Blood clanrats. Not a huge number by some standards, but enough for three units of 45,  which I don't think is too bad. (I also have old, 4th generation clanrats, but I prefer to use them as slaves as they have an even more subhuman and degenerate look to them.)








I tried one or two new things this time around:
Firstly, a more extreme highlight on the edges of cloth items. I wanted to see how this would look from "Tabletop distance". Actually, I don't think it looks too bad! Here is a close-up:
Detail: Blood red edge highlights on cloth.
Secondly, as you can see in the unit images above, I have kept in a couple of Clanrats using different colours to add just a touch of variety among my units. In this case, the Blood Red used could mean they could be from Clan Mors or possibly Clan Moulder (I wonder what their stories are? Renegades?) What do you think?


Thirdly, I followed a different process for rust. Usually I use a very watered-down Blazing Orange wash. This time though I used a very watered-down Vermin Brown and then (for some models) stippled on a bit of (again watered-down) Blazing Orange. Kudos to the My Wargame blog for the tip. You can see how it turned out below on the clanrat's blade.
Detail: Vermin Brown and Blazing Orange rust washes.
Next project is decided...
...Queek Headtaker!
My first ever Finecast! Looking forward to finding out with my own eyes (and ratty fingers) what working with this new material is really like...



*Squeek!*

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