Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Speed Painting Skaven Clanrats

*Squeek*


Having recovered from the exhaustion of painting x50 Clanrats in the space of week (you can see how they turned out here...) I can now use this brief lull between painting units  to provide some insight for other aspiring Skaven warlords who need to paint a large number of troops relatively quickly.


++WARNING+ +WARNING+ +WARNING+
The main goal here is to get a large number of models to the table-top, painted to an acceptable standard, in a relatively short time. The models won't look as good as if you spent hours on each one, or if you spent time detailing each model - but they WILL look good enough to be on a gaming table. (And you can always revisit the unit later anyway.)

This single-minded approach might not work for everyone, but it worked for me by helping me to paint faster than I usually could because I accepted this as my goal. Finally, the hints below come from my first experience of painting 50 models in a week. Some of them I tried, and some of them are things I didn't do, but I would try in the future. I hope they will all be useful!

PAINTING ORDER:
  1. Assemble (glue parts and file away any flash)
  2. Basing Part 1.
    1. PVA glue and dip in sand.
  3. Undercoat whole model Chaos Black Spray - including bases.
  4. Basing Part 2. 
    1. Overbrush Calthan Brown (or another dark brown)
    2. Drybrush lighter brown (Calthan Brown/ Chaos White mix)
    3. Lightly drybrush Fortress Grey.
    4. Paint base edges in your preferred colour.
  5. x1 basecoat colour in a sitting on all models. I could do 1 colour on 50 in two hours. (Just!)
    1. All metal areas using Boltgun Metal.
    2. All cloth areas using the army colour your choice (Ice Blue for me) in the next 2 hour sitting 
    3. All furs using the basecoat colour of choice. (Vermin Brown?)  in the next 2 hour sitting 
    4. etc.
  6. Repeat step 5 until each model is completely base-coated.
  7. Wash each model in Devlan Mud.
  8. Admire how much you have managed to get done, then immediately start looking for mistakes and things to improve!  ;-)
10 TIPS:
  1. Make a commitment...
    • ...somewhere, somehow that will force you to keep going. On an earlier project (Doomwheel) I promised I would put the results of my painting up after a specific weekend. This helped me to keep going, even if I didn't quite make my deadline.
  2. Set yourself a time limit... 
    • Write it down somewhere visible in way that makes sense. (A calendar counting down the days in front of you?)
  3. Promise yourself a reward for completion of the unit. 
    • A bottle of Bugman's? Or a new unit to paint next?
  4. Be iron-willed about the time you will allocate each day (or night in my case...)
    • I said 2 hours max each night, so 2 hours it was.
  5. Arrange your workspace in a way that is logical and removes thought from the process. For example...
    • Arrange all models in a block on your left on a piece of card or movement tray. 
    • Take the one closest to you.
    • Paint.
    • Set down on another piece of card/ movement tray to your right.
    • Once all done with one basecoat, pick up the tray to your right and move it back to the left and begin again (if you can take another round!)
    • Make your workspace portable so it is easy to put away and get out without taking a lot of time to prep or tidy up. (Not relevant if you paint in your own room, but in my case I'm working in the kitchen...)
  6. Don't allow yourself to be distracted into working on details. No, no, no! If you do, before you know it you'll have wasted an hour doing the armour buckles on a few models. Remember, the goal here is to get as many models as possible onto the table. You could have painted a basecoat colour on x25-30 models in that time!
  7. Take shortcuts and compromise to get the units to the battle on time.
    • Not every Clanrat has to have the same fur colour. To save time, have 20-30% of your Clanrats with "black fur" (i.e. black undercoat only.) This adds variety to your unit and saves you some painting time. You can always drybrush a touch of grey later to add some flavor
    • Don't bother with "Effects" - no rust, verdigris, sharp edge effects on weapons etc. (You can always do that later.)
    • Don't waste time trying to get into the really difficult to reach bits under arms, in crevices etc. Someone looking at the model from above wouldn't see that anyway. Natural shadow and a black undercoat will fill the spaces anyway!
    • Only drybrush the wood grain on shields.
  8. That includes bases...
    • Good bases make an average unit look better... 
    • Great bases make a good unit look awesome... 
    • but Basic bases get you into battle quicker. (Basecoat, overbrush, drybrush only. No flock, flowers or fluffy details are necessary.)
  9. Good music makes the time go by...
  10. Use confident, long brush strokes where you can... 
    • Confidence is the key - if you make a mistake don't worry, Devlan Mud wash will cover most small errors and they won't be visible in a unit of 50 rats viewed from a couple of feet away. Don't be tempted to fix it.
    • Good areas to use this technique on Skaven are tails, spears and robes. 
*Squeek*

































NOTE:
a.) ...there will of course be faster ways than described above (using spray guns or only having 1 or 2 colours in the unit for example). I'm not claiming that this the fastest way (or the only way.)
b.) ...the beady-eyed among you (which is most, if you truly are Skaven Warlords!) will notice that the clanrat units in these images are different. That's because I didn't take any pictures of these specific Clanrats before I painted them. Nothing shifty going on - I promise. (On my honour as a Skaven Warlord. Cough, cough.)


Sunday, October 3, 2010

Island of Blood Skaven Clanrat Gallery

*Squeek*

Phew - just finished this week's painting project...
x50 Skaven Clanrats from the new Island of Blood Box set. I painted for a couple of hours each night,  managing to add x1 basecoat colour to all x50 models in each sitting. Over the weekend I added details and washed the models.

In a bit of an experiment (that I'll write about in more detail separately) I washed x25 models when they just had basic colours and washed the other x25 after also applying highlights. On the latter (more detailed) batch, I also used different washes on different parts of the model, rather than just Devlan Mud on the first lot. Can you tell the difference? Was it worth it?

Photos...























































































































































I'll post a stage-by-stage in the next couple of days for these "Generation 5" Clanrats (to accompany the current Clanrat stage-by-stage, which is for "old-style" Skaven models...). Right now thought, I need a break...
...and a beer!
:-)

*Squeek*

Saturday, September 25, 2010

Skaven Doomwheel Stage-by-Stage

*Neek*

Behold - the Skaven Doomwheel...
Click here for my Doomwheel Gallery
Perhaps the most devious of the inventions of Clan Skryre and a fearsome sight on the battlefield (even to the Skaven, given how regularly it goes out of control...) After starting on this as a result of a poll held on the site, I finally finished it a couple of days ago.

Here are the steps followed: (Roughly...consuming too much pilfered Bugman's may have affected my memory...and I sometimes do highlights/ drybrushing and washes "out of order" etc.)

EDIT: Following the launch of the latest Citadel Paint range in 2012, please note that the colours listed below are from the previous range. I hope to have time to rewrite in the future, but for the time being, you can use the conversion chart/ list I made here or use the official Citadel Conversion chart here.

1. Assembly and General Tips:
  • Remember to follow the instructions and assemble and paint the pilot and pilot's cage first. It would be extremely difficult to paint once you have glued the wheels and other parts on!  
  • I painted up almost all parts before assembly. Trust me, it's easier...
2. Undercoat:
  • All parts were sprayed with Chaos Black.
3.  Basecoat/ Layering:
  • Pilot:
    • Cloth: Red Gore, layered with 50/50 Red Gore/ Blood Red mix.
    • Skin: Tallarn Flesh, layered with Elf Flesh.
    • Helmet/ Armour: Boltgun Metal.
    • Gloves: Snakebite leather, layered with 50/50 Snakebite Leather/ Skull White mix.
  • Pilot's cage:
    • Inner cage: Dwarf Bronze.
    • Outer cage: Boltgun Metal.
    • Steering column: Boltgun Metal.
    • Pipes: Codex Grey. Drybrush Fortress Grey
    • Tubes: Snot Green, Yellow, Regal Blue. 
    • Compressor/ Tank: Dwarf Bronze.
    • Pilot's periscope: Boltgun Metal/ Dwarf Bronze on the plates. Dark Angels Green on Lens, highlight 50/ 50 Darkangels Green/ Snot Green, and then 25/75 Darkangels Green/ Snot Green.

    Lens detail

















    • Wheel units:
      • Wood: Bestial Brown.
      • Cogs/ Gears/ Wheelstuds/ Symbols: Boltgun Metal.
    • Warpstone: Dark Angels Green.
    • Outer Cage/ Blades.
      • Blades: Boltgun Metal.
      • Cage: Boltgun Metal/ Dwarf Bronze. (Clasps, coachwork)
      • Lightning(?): Dwarf Bronze. 
    Various parts, before Devlan Mud wash.














    • Flag/ Pennant. (See "Custom Bitz" below for more info...)
      • Wood: Bestial Brown.
      • Symbol: Dwarf Bronze/ Boltgun Metal. 
      • Cord: Bleached Bone. 
      • Cloth: Red Gore, layered with 50/50 Red Gore/Blood Red mix, and then pure Blood Red.
      • Cloth: Ice Blue, layered with 50/50 Ice Blue/ Skull White mix.)
    • Rats: 
      • Calthan Brown, drybrushed successively with lighter and lighter shades of Calthan Brown/ Snakebite leather mix. 
    • Crew/ Crew Platform:
      • Cloth (Hood): Gore Red (Hood), layered with Gore Red/ Blood Red mix. 
      • Cloth (Robes): Codex Grey, layered with 50/50 Codex Grey/ Fortress Grey mix.
      • Skin/ Feet: Dwarf Flesh, then Elf Flesh Highlights. (Horns are Skull White or Bleached Bone.) 
      • Platform: Bestial Brown drybrush.
    4. Drybrushing:
    • Warpstone: 50/50 Darkangels Green/ Snot Green mix, then Darkangels Green/ Snot Green/ Skull White mix. (Drybrush this quite lightly so it doesn't overpower the darker greens.)
    • Wheel units: 75/ 25 Bestial Brown/ Skull White mix on all wooden parts. 
    • Wires: Gryphonne Sepia 

    NOTE: All the above was done when the parts were separate, as was the Devlan Mud wash below.

    5. Washes:
    • First, Devlan Mud everywhere except Warpstone/ Rats for the base. 
    • Use Thraka Green Wash on warpstone.
    • Gryphonne Sepia on the rats. 
    Pilot and Pilot's cage after Devlan Mud wash.

    Wheels after Devlan Mud wash.
     At this point, the model was assembled, but not glued to the base.
    • Then Rust wash: (25/75 Calthan Brown/ Blazing Orange mix, very, very watered down.) This was brushed onto most metallic areas. Immediately after applying , I then dabbed/ wiped away excess using a tissue, leaving the rust wash around spikes and gathered around areas where rust would naturally occur.
    • Then Verdigris wash: (20/80 Regal Blue/ Ice Blue mix, again, very, very watered down.) This was brushed onto and around most Dwarf Bronze areas. Dabbed away as above immediately after application. 
    Rust and Verdigris (Around Skaven symbol)















    6. Base:
    • Brush P.V.A. glue all over, being careful not to get too much on the model.
    • Pour modelling sand over glue. Allow to dry.
    • Brush with a watery Calthan Brown.
    • Drybrush successively lighter layers of Calthan Brown.
    • Final (very light) drybrushing of Fortress Grey. 
    Custom Bitz...
    • Pennant/ Flag. This is taken from the Skaven Warlord in the Island of Blood Set. I hate really extravagant back pennants (They just seem silly to me...especially for a tunnel-dwelling race!). Also, the huge and very dynamically modeled pennant that comes with the Doomwheel model could be used as an awesome army banner! 
    • "Ratty Roadkill": Used a spear arm and a Plague Monk head from my Bitz Box.
    Lessons learned?
    I attempted a couple of things I haven't tried before - rust and verdigris washes. In both cases I didn't have any professional washes so I used watered down Games Workshop colours. I'm not sure they worked 100%, but I think they achieve the desired effect.
    - Definitely test them on a small, out-of-the-way part of the model before using them on a larger surface.
    - For the rust, the balance of Calthan Brown to Blazing Orange is tricky - too brown and it looks like mud, too orange and it looks too bright. I found about 25/75 CB to BO to be about right.
    - Also, test the consistency of the mix once you have added water. Not enough and it will be like paint and impossible to remove, too watery and you won't get the desired effect. Experimentation is key!

    Bases. I should have done the base properly before gluing the model on. The glue and sand was difficult to do with the model in place and I ended up getting it on the Doomwheel and other places I didn't want it to go.

    For all that though, I have a Doomwheel to add to my fledgling Skaven force!

    All comments and criticism or advice welcome.

    *Squeek*

    Thursday, September 23, 2010

    Skaven Doomwheel - gallery

    *Squeek*

    "A Doomwheel, yes-yes! Only one, but even so, a new unit of Clan Skryre-devised death-dealing destruction is to be welcomed...
    ...now, where is that cretinous pilot?"






































































































































    I'll post a stage-by-stage guide in the next day or two!

    As always, all criticism, comments and suggestions welcome.

    *Squeek*

    Tuesday, September 21, 2010

    Doomwheel Update!


    *Squeek*

    Phew, it's about 25 past midnight here in Japan on the morning of Tuesday 21st of September. While that means I broke my deadline of posting an update on Monday, at least I have something to share with everyone who voted on my poll a few days ago.

    Here is my Doomwheel at the time of writing. I started at 1 PM today, and in total I would say to get to the stage at bottom of the photos took about 8 hours in total (Yeah - I know, pretty slow eh?):

















































































    It isn't finished by any stretch of the imagination.., but I am well on the way now. Lots of details to be tidied up, basing (of course) highlighting in lots of areas etc...To be honest, I think it looks OK so far, but I have the feeling that the base will pull it all together in the next few days.

    Once that is all done, I'll try to find the time to post a full step-by-step.

    DOOMWHEEL! 
    :-)
    Thanks for dropping by!

    *Squeek*!!
    Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...