Goodbye Games Workshop...

*Squeek*

I hope I haven't got this wrong...

...but I was sorry to hear from the manager of my local GW here in a suburb of Tokyo that they, and four other GW branches, will be shut down in the next few weeks. I had popped in to buy some new brushes, "magic sauce" (Devlan Mud) and the latest edition of White Dwarf when I was told.

I wasn't really concentrating too hard on the Japanese used at the time, as I had a long day at work, but it only struck me later that maybe the manager was talking about being closed over the Obon Holiday period? However, one thing that makes me think I heard the manager right was that I notice on their store locator page they now list only 2 GW Hobby Centres (Jinbocho and Nakano). 

As some of you will remember, after the big earthquake I wrote in to GW to see if all the staff were fine and was relieved to hear that they were. I don't know if I heard right and the store really is closing permanently, but IF so, I hope that the employees at those stores will keep their jobs elsewhere within the organization. They were always exceptionally polite and helpful.

お疲れさまでした！

Domo-Kun salutes you GW Machida

In other news, the GW Japan website has moved over to the Games Workshop UK site in look and feel, and all access is now being redirected there from Japan.

*Squeek*

New Clanrats Update - Part 7!

*Squeek*

Well, I think we are nearly there! (Famous last words...)

I managed to get the Devlan Mud wash onto the whole unit this evening and I think they would be OK on the tabletop at this point! I was careful to apply it to the clothes, armour and weapons, rather than put it on over the Ogryn Flesh wash I did yesterday. As usual, the Devlan Mud has toned down the Ice Blue nicely, and given the unit a dirty (Skaven-like!) look.

Here is a comparison of one model before and after washes:

Before washes

Ogryn Flesh wash on skin/ tail etc.

Devlan Mud wash on cloth, armour, weapons.

 And here is the unit together:

As you can see, I also painted the eyes Blood Red and also brushed a lighter layer of Calthan Brown on the bases too.

To finish off the unit, I still need to do the banners, add some grass to the bases and (time permitting) drybrush the skin, armour and cloth. On the command squad (Champion, Standard Bearer and Musician) I might also do some detailed highlighting as they are the key models in the unit.

I'm getting excited about finally seeing this unit on the table next to my other Clanrat units!
:-)

*Squeek*

Big News and New Clanrats Update - Part 6

*Squeek*

Yes, I got another stage done tonight after work on my latest unit of 40 Clanrats...
...Ogryn Flesh Wash.

After putting on most of the base colours across the unit, adding washes is usually the next step. A wash adds depth to the model by simulating shadows as the darker wash accumulates in the folds and corners of the model. This contrast helps to give the whole model definition.

Here are the pics of how we finished up tonight. As I only did the skin, it may be a bit difficult to see the difference between today and the painting I did yesterday before washes, so I have put some pics below to show "Before" and "After" adding a wash..

Before Flesh wash. The colours look "chalky" and there is little definition.

 

After Ogryn Flesh wash. Shadows and definition on the arms, tail etc.

 The next step will be a Devlan Mud wash on the armour, robes and metallics to darken things down a bit. When the Devlan mud goes on, it will be very easy to see a difference!

And in other news...(OK, what follows really is the "Big" news) Games Workshop announced by email today something big for July this year:

"Storm of Magic."
(Trumpet Fanfare!) Just what is "Storm of Magic"? 
N.O....I.D.E.A!

The link in the email led to the following info...

------------

Incoming: Storm of Magic

Storm of Magic - when the eight winds howl...

The Winds of Magic are tumultuous. Drawn by Morrslieb, they are prone to rise from a strong gale into a howling tempest. And when they do no kingdom or realm is safe.

Monsters awaken from their slumber and are summoned from their lairs at the bidding of sorcerous masters. Armies assemble, ready to defend their borders or seize the opportunity to gain limitless power. It is in these desperate times tenuous pacts between wizards and creatures of darkness are sealed to create alliances never thought possible.

A time of doom and great deeds is at hand. Will you rise to meet the storm?

Announcing the impending arrival of Storm of Magic, the latest and largest Expansion for Warhammer, the Game of Fantasy Battles. Launched in July 2011, Storm of Magic describes what happens when great eldritch maelstroms roil across the lands. Magic becomes far more powerful and there is a whole range of Cataclysm spells to cast, unleashing untold devastation on the enemy. Arcane Fulcrums burst from the ground, not only acting as loci for the swirling energies that pervade a battle fought amidst the Storm of Magic, but changing the way a Warhammer tabletop looks and interacts with your armies. With such things so crucial to your Storm of Magic games a new range of Warhammer scenery and Wizards will soon be released in time for you to wage cataclysmic battles.

Then there are the monsters. When the Winds of Magic blow with such strength, the fell creatures of the world gravitate towards the tempest, slithering from deep tunnels or emerging from mountain lairs.

With the new Expansion allowing you to use so many different creatures there are a whole host of new monstrous plastic kits on their way. Citadel's queen of creatures, Trish Carden, has spent the last few years in her own lair preparing for the new monsters to be unleashed upon the world and you can see two brief glimpses of what is to come below:

July is still a few months away; we are in the calm before the storm so now is the time to prepare. Bolster your forces, prepare your regiments and summon your wizards in time for the ultimate war. Keep checking White Dwarf and the website for updates, for when the storm hits nowhere will be safe!

-----------

 Sounds cool?
 Well, yes and no. 
Yes: 

• New models and monsters - cool!

No:

• I'm just getting to grips with the basic rules and trying to get my first few games in, so I probably won't be in any state to try out additional rules.
• My wallet is still feeling the pain from all the other WFB and 40K stuff I have bought.

• From what I hear, there a plenty of people who need other stuff sorted out for WFB first - new (or updated) army books etc.

I am sure that more will be revealed, so stay tuned! Hope to be back soon with more painting updates. Until then...

*Squeek!*

How to Paint a Skaven Warlord

*Squeek*

Below is a step-by-step guide to painting an Island of Blood Skaven Warlord. No claims that it is high-art or anything like that, but I think that it works pretty well on the table-top!

At a couple of stages I have added some WIP pics, and there are some images of the finished item at the bottom (Note that I painted this ages a go, so some of the steps may not be in order.)

Hope you like it...

EDIT: Following the launch of the latest Citadel Paint range in 2012, please note that the colours listed below are from the previous range. I hope to have time to rewrite in the future, but for the time being, you can use the conversion chart/ list I made here or use the official Citadel Conversion chart here.

1. Assembly.

• File away any flash or very carefully remove using a modelling knife. (My ratty fingers carry many scars that are mute testimony to how important it is to be careful...)
• Glue to base.

2. First Basing.

• Paint some slightly watered-down PVA glue to the base.
• Dip base into modelling sand.
• Shake away excess and leave to dry.

3. Undercoat.

• Undercoat whole model. (I use GW Chaos Black spray paint.)

4. Dry Brush base.

• Calthan Brown.

5. Basecoat.

• Boltgun Metal: Halberd blade, chains on the back-banner, fixtures on back banner symbol (holding symbol to pole), chainmail, front edge of helmet
• Dwarf Bronze: Armour, helmet, Skaven symbol on back-banner, brazier
• Bleached Bone: Skull, cords on back-banner pole, stitching at the top of the back-banner flags.
• Dark Angels Green: Warpstone fumes.
• Codex Grey: Plinth/ masonry, back-banner flag:
• Tallarn Flesh: face, hands, feet, tail.
• Ice Blue: Robes, halberd pendant. 
• Snakebite Leather: leather armour straps, pouch
• Knarloc Green: Back-banner flag.
• Skull White: Teeth, nails.
• Red Gore: Eyes, jewel on plinth/ masonry.

6. Layers.

• Robes/ Halberd Pendant: Ice Blue/ Skull White (50/50 mix), then Ice Blue/ Skull White (25/75 mix)
• Flesh/ Tail: Tallarn Flesh/ Dwarf Flesh (50/50 mix)
• Skull: Bleached Bone/ Skull White (50/50 mix)
• Back Banner Flag (Green): Calthan Green/ Skull White (50/ 50 mix) then Calthan Green/ Skull White (25/75 mix)
• Back Banner Flag (Grey): Codex Grey/ Fortress Grey (50/50 mix) then Codex Grey/ Fortress Grey (25/75 mix)
• Warpstone Pendant: Dark Angels Green/ Snot Green (50/50 mix) then Dark Angels Green/ Snot Green (25/75 mix)
• Warpstone Flame: Dark Angels Green/ Snot Green (50/50 mix) then Dark Angels Green/ Snot Green (25/75 mix) then Dark Angels Green/ Snot Green/ Skull White (50/25/25 mix)
• Pouch/ Leather straps: Snakebite Leather/ Skull White (50/50 mix)
• Eyes: Red Gore/ Blood Red (50/50 mix)
• Jewel on Plinth/ Masonry: Red Gore/ Blood Red (50/ 50 mix) then 25/75 mix, then Red Gore/ Blood Red/ Skull White (25/50/ 15)

If you want to add Skaven symbols to the back-banner flags, now is a good time to do it - before washes...

7. Washes.

• Devlan Mud: Armour, chainmail, halberd Blade, halberd pole, hatchet, robes, back-banner flags, back banner pole (not cords.), halberd pendant, Plinth/ masonry.
• Thraka Green: Warpstone amulet, warpstone smoke.
• Gryphonne Sepia: Cords on back-banner pole, skull.
• Ogryn Flesh: Flesh, tail, feet, hands.

8. Drybrushing.

• Shining Gold: Armour, brazier, Skaven symbol on back-banner
• Mithril Silver: Chainmail.
• Calthan Brown/ Skull White (75/25 mix): Halberd pole, back-banner pole
• Codex Grey: very lightly brush across the exposed fur on the Warlord's back.
• Banner Chains: Chainmail or Mithril Silver.
• Earth: Calthan Brown/ Snakebite leather (50/50 mix)

9. Highlights.

• Weapon edges: Chainmail
• Metal clasps on back banner/ Skaven Symbol: Chainmail or Mithril Silver.
• Add a dot of white on the jewel on the plinth/ masonry. (See images below)

10. Final Basing.

• Dab on a couple of spots of PVA glue.
• Dip in green flock.
• Leave to set for a few minutes then shake off excess.
• Carefully paint around base edge using Snakebite Leather.

11. Verdigris (Optional)

This is the light blue patina that you see on old statues or layers of bronze in museums or exposed to the elements. Having this will add an additional sense of age to any bronze parts. Please note, if you haven't done this before, experiment first, as if you get it wrong this is the last stage of the model, so it may be difficult to correct...

• Heavily water down GW Ice Blue. You'll have to experiment to find the right consistency, but I would say 1 part paint to between 7 and 10 parts water. It should be watery enough that you can wipe away WITHOUT leaving a stain. (Very important so you can correct mistakes if necessary!)
• Carefully paint onto any bronze parts where Verdigris would naturally appear so that it gathers. In the case of the Skaven Warlord, a good place is around the base of the shoulder spikes on his armour. (recessed areas, around nails, buttons and joins between bronze parts are also good too.)
• Quickly take a tissue, fold to a point, and dab away any excess, so it is left gathered around the parts mentioned above.
• Leave remainder to dry. (Be patient!)
• HINT: Only add Verdigris to one area at a time so you have time to wick or dab away excess before it dries. Don't add to ALL bronze parts on the whole model at the same time! 

FINISHED!

Skaven Warlord Image Gallery

*Squeek*

Just a quick update today on perhaps the most important addition(s) to my growing Skaven army:

• x2 Island of Blood Warlords.
• x1 Chieftain Battle Standard Bearer conversion. 

I managed to complete these three models over the last couple of days in anticipation of my first game of WFB this coming Saturday. Why are they so important? Well, knowledgeable players (not me) seem to generally agree that the Warlord is absolutely key because of his leadership. Now, LD 7 may not sound that impressive, but when the rest of your army has some of the worst leadership scores in the game this becomes important!

Here are some pictures of the Warlord and a bit more information for each model. I'll try to add a step-by-step painting guide in the next week or so...

Skaven Warlord 1

This is the "Tooled-up" Warlord. By this I mean he has his back banner. I had two warlords from buying two Island of Blood sets so I decided to see what the Warlord would look like with and without the enormous back-banner the model has. (You can see the same Warlord model without the back-banner further down the page.)

I was happy to have this chance because as a rule I am not a huge fan of enormous back-banners like this so I wanted to compare the two models side-by-side. I can only imagine that this thing would really just get in the way! (Yes, I know WFB isn't "Real life" so it doesn't matter and I'm aware of the "Sashimono" back-banners that Japanese warriors would wear, but still they Skaven banners just feel too unwieldy.)

I added some Skaven glyphs to the banner to give it a bit more "Skaven-ness"

On most of my rank-and-file troops I tend to use Devlan Mud for the whole model just because it is so simple and a real time-saver.For this guy I have used some other washes for (I think) a better effect overall. (Thraka Green on the Warpstone flames, Ogryn Flesh on the skin, Gryphonne Sepia on the ropes.)

Here is a close-up. It is a bit difficult to make out, but I used an Ice Blue wash on some of the spikes and other brass parts too to help make the brass metals look a bit dirty and add a patina of age.

Skaven Warlord 2

I used exactly the same colour scheme but simply removed the back-banner after assembly.

All comments and feedback welcome!

Cheers,

*Squeek*

Updated Warpfire Thrower and Poison Wind Mortar

*Squeek*

Following advice and comments from some of the fine Warlords who visited my Skaven Warpfire Thrower and Poison Wind Mortar Gallery, I have finally found some time to just add a bit of dirt and age to these two units.

Essentially all I did was add a layer of home-made Verdigris (heavily watered-down Ice Blue paint) to the brass areas of the equipment and follow this up with some carefully applied Devlan Mud. This has dulled them down a bit and made them look a bit dustier and not quite so bright. In reality, they now look duller than these photos show...

Before aging...

After aging...

Before aging...

After aging...

If you look closely, you can see how the ice blue paint has been left to collect around the edges and rims of the brass, while I used a folded tissue to gently wick away any excess. This is one reason why it is important if using a home-made wash to water it down properly. This makes it easy to wick away from areas where you don't want to leave a stain.

Now that I've got these two units to a point where I feel as though they are "Finished" I'll try to post a step-by-step guide in the next few days and add some more photos to the gallery. After that I'm going to have to buckle down to either doing another big unit...
...30-40 Slaves?
...40 Clanrats?
...20 Storm Vermin?

The list of models still to paint never ends for a horde army does it??
;-)

*Squeek!*

Island of Blood Skaven Clanrat Gallery

*Squeek*

Phew - just finished this week's painting project...
x50 Skaven Clanrats from the new Island of Blood Box set. I painted for a couple of hours each night,  managing to add x1 basecoat colour to all x50 models in each sitting. Over the weekend I added details and washed the models.

In a bit of an experiment (that I'll write about in more detail separately) I washed x25 models when they just had basic colours and washed the other x25 after also applying highlights. On the latter (more detailed) batch, I also used different washes on different parts of the model, rather than just Devlan Mud on the first lot. Can you tell the difference? Was it worth it?

Photos...

I'll post a stage-by-stage in the next couple of days for these "Generation 5" Clanrats (to accompany the current Clanrat stage-by-stage, which is for "old-style" Skaven models...). Right now thought, I need a break...

...and a beer!

:-)

*Squeek*

Painting Plague Monks - Washes

Unclean, unkempt and certainly unhealthy (to their foes...) your Skaven Plague Monks want to end up being looking pretty dirty and diseased on the tabletop. The models themselves offer lots of opportunities to get this effect due to the detail on the excellent new plastic models. Bandages, torn robes, boils, buboes and bulbous growths are all really well modeled.

Although I haven't completed my first Plague Monk unit yet, I have made some progress and thought I would put up some photos of some experiments I did with Games Workshop washes to give you and idea of the difference they can make to the overall look of a model.

For my base colour, I used a 1:1 mix of Codex Grey and Knarloc Green, which gave me a "Seasick Green" (Not an official colour!). It looks like this:

Onto the edges of this, I applied a lighter line of the same colours, (2:1 Codex Grey/ Knarloc Green) - no picture available sadly - and then I had to decide what wash to use to add depth and shadows. As my paint collection is quite small, I only have Thraka Green and Devlan Mud at the moment. First, here is what happens when a coat of Thraka Green is liberally applied...

It looks pretty green! In fact, this fellow wouldn't look out of place in Sherwood Forest...not quite what I had in mind. Now let's look at a model where only Devlan Mud is used...

A much muddier effect (obviously), but the underlying colour now looks quite washed out. That isn't necessarily bad as the robes looks older and dirty, fitting in well with the Plague Monks theme and with an army in the field (or that has just come of their tunnels under the earth...)

To make the difference even clearer, here are a couple of samples side by side:

Quite a difference!

I'm undecided which I like better at the moment...

...any comments or preferences?