Painted Gloomhaven Miniatures (Starting six characters)

One of the attractions of Gloomhaven is the different characters that you can play, and the excitement that comes from retiring your character and starting a new one. Each time, you get to open a new envelope that describes that character AND a model box which has their tabletop model. 

If you are like me you enjoy all of this, but you also want to see those models painted. Last week I finished the final two of the 18 models that come in the box, so thought I would share them here, starting with the first 6 (unlocked) characters.

To paint these, I focused on:

1. Speed. I used Games Workshop Contrast Paints for all organic material - this saves time because I don't have to do a separate wash. I used regular Games Workshop paints for other materials. (I use GW simply because that is what I have. Other ranges are just as good - or better depending on who you talk to!)
2. Bases. I wanted to have each model based, as I feel this always ties a model together, even if the base is very simple. My attempts range from super simple (sand with a brown basecoat on most of the starting six) to trying to do something different (some bases painted to match the hex designs in the game, and a cobblestone effect I hadn't tried before.)

Below you will find all of the models, starting with the opening 6 characters that are available when you start the game. With some I've added a couple of comments. In the coming days I'll post the other 12 finished models too. 

A word of warning: Please note I'm not claiming to be an expert! These are "Tabletop" quality. Designed to be fine for a game when viewed from 2-3 feet away, but not for trying to win any painting prizes etc.(and I couldn't even if I tried!) 

:-)

Starting Six Characters

Gloomhaven starting 6 classes

General painting approaches used throughout:

1. Undercoat whole model (including base) in a light colour (e.g Wraithbone). Spray cans are ideal for this.
2. Do all the Contrast Paints first on organic materials. (e.g. leather, wood, fabric, skin).
3. Tidy up any mistakes with Wraithbone. Make sure all non-organic areas are carefully covered with Wraithbone, ready for next step.
4. Do "Normal" (non-contrast) paints on non-organics (e.g metals, metallic armour, glass, belt buckles, gems etc.)
5. Add "washes" onto the normal paints to add depth and shadows.(e.g. Nuln Oil on top of a metallic paint.)
6. Highlight washed areas with normal paints OR do a drybrush. (e.g. On a metallic paint that had a Nuln Oil wash, now go over with the original metallic paint again, but leaving the Nuln Oil in the dips and shadows to add depth. Then use a lighter version of the original metallic paint as a highlight (or drybrush.) 
1. For example, on a metal blade: Leadbelcher (basecoat), Nuln Oil (wash), Leadbelcher again, then Runefang Steel (highlight). OPTIONAL: Drybrush Runefang steel (to pick out raised areas/ edges.)

OK, with that out of the way let's get going!

Mindthief

Vermling Mindthief

With the Mindthief you can see immediately how useful Contrast paints can be. The blue robes just get painted once, and the paint flows and gathers into the folds of the robe naturally, meaning they are done in one pass.

After undercoating with Wraithbone, painted using:

• Robes: Contrast Talassar Blue
• Fur: Contrast Space Wolves Grey
• Skin: Contrast Guilliman Flesh
• Belt: Contrast Snakebite Leather
• Knife blade: Leadbelcher
• Knife guard: Mournfang Brown, then Agrax Earthshade wash, Dwarf Bronze (guard highlight)
• Bracelet: Mournfang Brown, then Dwarf Bronze (highlight)
• Potions: Contrast Ork Flesh, then Moot Green, then a spot of 'ardcoat varnish to make glisten.
• Eyes: Lothern Blue.
• Base: Watered down wood glue, dipped into modelling sand, then Contrast Cygor Brown (when dry!). Middenland Tuft grass. "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish.

Scoundrel

Scoundrel

After undercoating with Wraithbone, painted using:

• "Skirt": Contrast Ork Flesh
• Hair: Contrast Cygor Brown
• Leg/ cloth: Contrast Space Wolves Grey
• Skin: Contrast Guilliman Flesh, Tallarn Flesh (highlight)
• Leather armour/ leather thigh boots/ belt/ scabbards: Contrast Snakebite Leather 
• Chest armour, forearm armour: Leadbelcher, then Nuln Oil wash, then Leadbelcher highlights, then Runefang Steel drybrush.
• Knife: Leadbelcher (weapon blade), Nuln Oil wash, Runefang steel dry brush. Optional: Add "poison" along the blade edge: Contrast Ork Flesh
• Knife guard: Mournfang Brown, Dwarf Bronze (guard highlight)
• Knee pads: Abaddon Black, then drybrush Leadbelcher
• Backscabbard: Contrast Snakebite Leather, Leadbelcher (on fittings), then Nuln Oil wash (on fittings) then Runefang Steel highlights.
• Mask: Contrast Black Templar
• Base: Watered down wood glue, dipped into modelling sand, then Contrast Cygor Brown (when dry!).  Middenland Tuft grass. "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish.

Brute

Inox Brute

The Brute is another model that works really well with Contrast Paints as almost everything on his is an organic material. His cloak is huge and covers almost the whole of the rear of the model, making that side really quick to finish.

After undercoating with Wraithbone, painted using:

• Horns: Contrast Snakebite Leather
• Skin: Contrast Space Wolves Grey
• Teeth/ Mouth: Wraithbone highlights after doing skin (above)
• Eyes: Abaddon Black, then Wild Rider Red (Highlight)
• Furs: Contrast Gore Grunta Fur
• Leather forearm armour: Contrast Snakebite Leather 
• Shoulder pads: Mournfang Brown, then Dwarf Bronze, then Nuln Oil (wash), then Dwarf Bronze (highlights or drybrush). Optional bling: Drybrush Auric Armour Gold.
• Belt: Dwarf Bronze, then Nuln Oil (wash), then Dwarf Bronze or Auric Armour Gold (drybrush.)
• Chest "armour"/ ribs:Mournfang Brown, Dwarf Bronze (highlight)
• Gems: Moot Green, then Moot Green/ White 50/50 mix (highlight), 'Ardcoat varnish.
• Sword: Leadbelcher (weapon blade), Nuln Oil wash, Runefang steel dry brush.
• Knee pad skulls: Contrast Skeleton Horde, then Ushabti Bone (highlights)
• Shield: 
• Inside: Contrast Cygor Brown.
• Rim/ Boss: Dwarf Bronze, then Runefang Steel (edge highlights)
• Hide covering: Mournfang Brown, then Vermin Brown.
• Brute symbol:Agrax Earthshade.
• Base: Watered down wood glue, dipped into modelling sand, then Contrast Cygor Brown (when dry!). Middenland Tuft grass. "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish.

Spellweaver

Spellweaver

After undercoating with Wraithbone, painted using:

• Hair/ chest: Contrast Aethermatic Blue
• Skin: Contrast Magos Purple
• Eyes: Abaddon Black, then Wild Rider Red (Highlight)
• Robes: Contrast Blood Angels Red
• Shoulder pads, forearm armour, leg armour, wrist cuffs shorts: Contrast Snakebite Leather 
• Stud (on front of belt): Leadbelcher, then Runefang Steel (highlight)
• Coins (on back of belt): Mournfang Brown, then Dwarf Bronze, then Nuln Oil (wash), then Dwarf Bronze (highlights or drybrush). Optional bling: Drybrush Auric Armour Gold
• Magic "flames"
• from hands: Contrast Aethermatic Blue
• on base: Contrast Talassar Blue, leading up to Contrast Aethermatic Blue
• Base: Watered down wood glue, dipped into modelling sand, then Contrast Cygor Brown (when dry!). Middenland Tuft grass. "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish. "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish.

Tinkerer

Quatryl Tinkerer

After undercoating with Wraithbone, painted using:

• Skin/ scalp: Contrast Iyanden Yellow
• Eyes: Abaddon Black, then Lothern Blue
• Goggles: Abaddon Black, then Mordian Blue, Lothern Blue highlight, 'Ardcoat.
• Rucksack, chest, coat, legs: Contrast Snakebite Leather. 
• Buckles: Leadbelcher, then Runefang Steel highlight.
• Tinkerer symbol (on chest): Contrast Aethermatic Blue.
• Pteruges (tassel-like armour protecting waist and groin): Snakebite Leather, then Lothern Blue detail.
• Metal utility belt: Leadbelcher, then Nuln Oil wash, then Runefang Steel highlight.
• Potion: Contrast Ork Flesh, then Moot Green highlight.
• Arms/ crossbow/ shoulder quiver/ thigh knife: Leadbelcher, then Nuln Oil wash, then Runefang Steel drybrush.
• Armour (Shoulder, knees, vambraces, greaves): Dwarf Bronze, then Nuln Oil (wash), then Dwarf Bronze (highlights or drybrush). Optional bling: Drybrush Auric Armour Gold
• Cobbled base*: For cobbles: Mechanicus Standard Grey, leaving black lines (or add black lines later). Then add some lighter layers of grey: 50/50 mix Mechanicus Grey/ Russ Grey. Finally lighter edge lines of light grey. After all painting, paint on some very thin lines of watered down wood glue and dip in flock. Finally, add Middenland Tuft grass to taste. "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish.

* I'm not very happy with the way the cobbles turned out, but this was my first try. they look very "flat" and waaaaaay too big. For an awesome video on how to paint cobblestones but that may add a lot of time to each miniature, visit Terrainosaur's YouTube video here.

Cragheart

Savvas Cragheart

The Cragheart is probably the easiest (and fastest) model to paint. He (it!) is also the second character I played after my Mindthief retired. Although I wanted to make "Ricky Balboa" a bit of a bruiser his loincloth turned out pinker than I'd hoped...

...still, if anyone can wear pink with confidence it is an element-wielding, earth-slinging, rock creature adventurer!

After undercoating with Wraithbone, painted using:

• Skin/ scalp: Contrast Space Wolf Grey
• Eyes: Abaddon black, then a layer of Corax White (leaving a black outline)
• Belt, shoulder armour, wrist cuffs: 
• Belt - Leather sides: Contrast Snakebite Leather.
• Belt - Metal front/ back: Dwarf Bronze, Agrax Earthshade wash, Dwarf Bronze highlight, finally a Auric Armour Gold drybrush or edge highlight. 
• Shoulder armour (spaulders): As above, but do a final edge highlight of Runefang Steel on the upper edges where light would fall, or to show where the brighter metal has worn away.
• "Heart": Contrast Black Templar.
• Loincloth: Contrast Magos Purple
• Base: Abaddon Black, then watered down wood glue, dipped into modelling sand, then Contrast Cygor Brown (when dry!). Middenland Tuft grass. "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish.

There you have the "Starting 6". In my next post I'll cover 6 more models, so watch this space.

Thanks for stopping by and reading.

:-)

How to Paint Queek Headtaker

Queek Headtaker leaps into action.

"Between the line of Greatcannon, the Reiksmarshall and his assembled commanders surveyed the battlefield from atop the low hill. 

Where only moments before he had been able to review the lie of the land, now it seemed that same earth had been carpeted by a rolling sea of dirty flesh and fur. The motion of the horde and the various hues of pelt before reminded him of a heaving sea ("but by all the gods, a sea of vermin!")  Unlike the ordered waves that crashed upon the shores of his homeland, this sea seemed to twitch, shake, and constantly skitter with a nervous energy. Already, he could feel that energy begin to infect some of his men and their animals, causing both man and beast to look this way and  that. The levies in particular seemed nervous ("damn the lower orders")

Preparing to give his final orders he turned to his party.

"Sir. SIR!" Came an urgent voice. "Look!" 
Turning to pass his good eye over the enemy, he at once became aware of a different motion. 

In the distance, the brown tide seemed to magically part as something came towards them...moments later (the distance being great) he could also hear a cacophany of high pitched squeeks and calls from the direction of this phenomenon. At last the front wave of vermin parted, and the cause of the commotion was revealed. 
A lone figure, clad in red armour. Upon his back a crest of...was it... carved totems?

"Lieutenant, my spyglass" 

With practiced east the Reichsmarshall swiftly raised and extended his family heirloom, and shortly the creature came into view. It was not totems that adorned him, but skulls and body parts, some...fresh. Most disconcertingly, he recognized what appeared to be (due to perhaps being the least decomposed) the most recent addition to this macabre collection... 
...Captain Valetius. 

"Lieutenant." 
"Sir?" 
"Pass the word. There shall be no reinforcements this day."

How to Paint Queek Headtaker
I think that this process is good enough for "tabletop quality" (I.e. acceptable when viewed from a couple of feet away)  Also, as I painted this guy a couple of weeks ago and I didn't take any notes all mixes are approximate.

EDIT: Following the launch of the latest Citadel Paint range in 2012, please note that the colours listed below are from the previous range. I hope to have time to rewrite in the future, but for the time being, you can use the conversion chart/ list I made here or use the official Citadel Conversion chart here.

Step 1: Preparation.

1. Remove the model from its sprue.
2. Carefully file or trim any excess flash from the model. (If the latter, use caution!)
3. Glue model to base.

Step 2: First basing.
I like to get the application of materials to my base done at this point to save trouble later. Doing it now allows you to correct any troublesome issues with sand or glue without worrying about any painting you might have done...

1. Sand or trim any flash from around the edge of the base. (It really shows up when you paint it...)
2. Paint PVA glue, optionally watered-down, onto the base, carefully avoiding getting excess glue onto feet or shoes (also claws, paws etc.)
3. Sprinkle a few pieces of crushed coral onto the base. (Obtained at the aquatic section of any pet shop) I find that 2-3 is enough.
4. Sprinkle sand over the base, so all remaining areas are covered.
5. Allow to dry.

Step 3: Priming/ Undercoat.

1. Prime the whole model. I use Citadel Chaos Black spray. Black is ideal for a model that will overall be darker in tone (and more forgiving for beginners like me as if you miss painting anything in hard to reach places it just looks like shadow.)
2. Allow to dry.

Step 4: Basecoat.
Here is what I ended up with after basecoats:

With basecoats only

basecoats only

In this step you will add the basic colours to the model. I used the following colours from Games Workshop (I haven't tried any other brands simply due to not having easy access to them.) 

Note that I usually do the skin first, then cloth, then armor. I believe this is called "Inside Out" painting. It works because you are painting the hardest to reach places first. They are often small and difficult to reach, so you are likely to make mistakes. The good thing with this approach though is that when you work on the next layer out (often cloth) you get the chance to paint over any mistakes.

• Mechrite Red: Armour.
• Boltgun Metal: Weapons.
• Chainmail: Chainmail highlights
• Dwarf Bronze: Crosspiece on swords
• Tallarn Flesh: Skin, tail, ears etc.
• Bleached Bone: Loincloth, Teeth/ bones on helmet, skull pommel of sword.
• Ice Blue: Edges of chain mail "skirt".
• Snakebite Leather: Straps on vambraces, half of weapons.
• Dark Angels Green: Jewel on clasp.
• Calthan Brown and/ or Codex Grey: Rats on base
• Codex Grey: Stones on base.
• Shining Gold: Edges and chain of Warpstone pendant. Earrings.
• Dark Angels Green: Warpstone on pendant. (not in the picture as I forgot to do it 'till later!) 

Step 5: Washes. 

After washes.

After washes.

This step adds shadow and depth to what (at the moment) will look like a very "flat" model. 
I use Games Workshop washes, again only because these are a known quantity for me.

• Devlan Mud: Weapons. Breastplate/ armour. Rats. Chainmail etc.
• Ogryn Flesh: Skin, tail, feet etc 
• Gryphonne Sepia: Loincloth/ cloth. 

Note the following optional washes. I often do these after everything else is complete, but I list them here as they are washes.

• OPTIONAL: Use a very watered down Vermin Brown if you want a rust effect on weapons etc. Immediately after applying, I dab at this with a tissue to vary the pattern of the "rust".
• OPTIONAL: Use a very watered down Ice Blue on raised areas of Dwarf Bronze if you want a blue "Patina" effect to add some aging (especially around raised areas.)

Step 6: Highlights. 
In this step, we build up the colours ("layering") in progressively lighter shades on raised areas to achieve more greater variation between light and shadow. This could be using progressively lighter,but separate colours (Tallarn Flesh ;Dwarf Flesh; Elf Flesh) OR by adding Skull White in ever-increasing amounts to a single colour. 
I'm not great at it yet, but you can find a good guide at "How to Paint Miniatures".

• Boltgun Metal: Reapply to edges of weapons etc.
• Dwarf Bronze/ Shining Gold mix (1:1): Edges of crosspiece on swords etc.
• Tallarn Flesh/ Dwarf Flesh mix: (1:1) Skin, feet, tail etc. then...
• Dwarf Flesh/ Elf Flesh mix: (1:1) on the same areas, leaving some of the previous darker shade.
• Bleached Bone/ Skull White mix: (2:1) Skull on pommel  teeth, nails etc.
• Snakebite Leather/ Skull White mix: (2:1) belt
• Dark Angels Green/Goblin Green mix: (1:1) mix for the Jewel on clasp. Follow this with Goblin Green, and then Goblin Green/ Skull White mix (2/1). 
• Calthan Brown/ Vermin Brown: (1:1) Rats on base
• Codex Grey/ Fortress Grey: (1:1) Grey rats on base
• Blood Red: Eyes

(In this case, I think I went over the main areas of the armour in Mechrite Red using drybrushing  as mentioned in the next stage, rather than hightlighting)

Step 7: Drybrushing.

Another step that adds highlights. 

Put some of your highlight colour on your brush.Run your brush over kitchen paper (or a tissue is OK) until there is almost no paint on the brush. Then run the brush very lightly across the raised areas of the model to which you want to add the highlight colour. This should leave the highlight colour only on the raised edges. (Again, information on How To Paint Miniatures is a good guide!)

• Mechrite Red: Raised areas of armour.
• Chainmail: Weapon edges, edges of armour plate (where, if real, movement of the armour/ friction between plates would rub away the colouring)

Step 8: Final Basing.

The last step (phew!) adding colours to the base.

1. Calthan Brown drybrush across the sand (not the rocks/ crushed Coral)
2. Calthan Brown/ Skull white mix (3/1) drybrush across the sand.
3. Codex Grey: drybrush across the sand. Paint onto the rocks.
4. Codex Grey/ Fortress Grey mix (1:1). drybrush across sand and edges of rocks.
5. Fortress Grey: Drybrush across sand and edges of rocks.

Done!

I think that is it...

*Squeek*

p.s. You can see that I didn't use the back-banner for this model as it feels too extravagant to me. Instead I used some Green Stuff to cover the hole where the back-banner would be placed and I am saving it...possibly to adorn a War-litter?

How to Paint Deathmaster Snikch

*Squeek*

"The candle, just for a moment, guttered. To one engrossed in his studies, such as Master Evan Redwood of the Esteemed College of Engineers, such a movement would have passed unnoticed. Even to a man who was not a scholar (and therefore even at the best of times disinterested in the mundane) it would prompt 
no raising of the head.
No renewed focus on the immediate environment.
No inkling of the arrival of an assassin nearly unequaled in skill by any other living practitioner (and few undead or Daemonic)..."

How to Paint Deathmaster Snikch
Please note that I think that this process is good enough for "tabletop quality" (I.e. acceptable when viewed from a couple of feet away) I make no claim to be a good painter, but I still hope this will be useful.
Also, I don't write anything down as I am painting, (being an amateur I have a hard time just painting!) so all mixes are approximate - please experiment and adjust as you wish!

EDIT: Following the launch of the latest Citadel Paint range in 2012, please note that the colours listed below are from the previous range. I hope to have time to rewrite in the future, but for the time being, you can use the conversion chart/ list I made here or use the official Citadel Conversion chart here.

Step 1: Preparation.

1. Remove the model from its sprue.
2. Carefully file or trim any excess flash from the model. (If the latter, use caution!)
3. Glue model to base.

Step 2: First basing.
I like to get the application of materials to my base done at this point to save trouble later. Doing it now allows you to correct any troublesome issues with sand it glue without worrying about any painting you might have done...

1. Sand or trim any flash from around the edge of the base. (It really shows up when you paint it...)
2. Paint PVA glue, optionally watered-down, onto the base, carefully avoiding getting excess glue onto feet or shoes (also claws, paws, bottom of robes etc. Etc)
3. Sprinkle a few pieces of crushed coral onto the base. (Obtained at the aquatic section of any pet shop) I find that 2-3 is enough.
4. Sprinkle sand over the base, so all remaining areas are covered.
5. Allow to dry.

Step 3: Priming/ Undercoat.

1. Prime the whole model. I use Citadel Chaos Black spray. Black is ideal for a model that will overall be darker in tone (and more forgiving for beginners like me as if you miss painting anything in hard to reach places it just looks like shadow.)
2. Allow to dry.

Step 4: Basecoat.
In this step you will add the basic colours to the model. I used the following colours from Games Workshop (I haven't tried any other brands simply due to not having easy access to them.)

• Chaos Black: Back of cape
• Chaos Black/ Mordian Blue mix: Inside of cape. (Chaos Black/ Mordian Blue mix 2:10) I felt pure Mordian blue to be too bright for Snikch, but that is just me! 
• Mordian Blue (pure) on the cross on the breastplate on the base.
• Boltgun Metal: Weapons, including throwing stars on belt, breastplate on base, tip of hood (looks like a small mace head)
• Dwarf Bronze: Crosspiece on swords, rim of breastplate on base, Bracers on wrists
• Tallarn Flesh: Skin
• Bleached Bone: Skeleton on base, teeth, nails, bandages on feet/ face
• Blood Red: Eyes
• Snakebite Leather: belt
• Dark Angels Green: Jewel on clasp, poison on blades
• Calthan Brown: Rats on base

Here is what I ended up with after basecoats:

Note: For this model, I actually went straight to highlights (step 6) and then did washes. However, at this point I would usually do washes and then highlights. Your choice! 

Step 5: Washes. 
This step adds shadow and depth to what (at the moment) will look like a very "flat" model. 
I use Games Workshop washes, again only because these are a known quantity for me. In this case I also made my own wash too... 

• Devlan Mud: Outside of cape. Weapons. Breastplate on base. Rats. 
• Ogryn Flesh: Skin, tail, feet etc 
• Gryphonne Sepia: Bandages on feet/ face, skeleton on base. 
• Mordian Blue/ Black ink wash: Very watered down mix, applied to the deep folds of the inside of the cape and on the hood. 

Step 6: Highlights. 
In this step, we build up the colours ("layering") in progressively lighter shades to achieve more greater variation between light and shadow. This could be using progressively lighter,but separate colours (Tallarn Flesh>Dwarf Flesh>Elf Flesh) OR by adding Skull White in ever-increasing amounts to a single colour. 
I'm not great at it yet, but you can find a good guide at "How to Paint Miniatures".

• Chaos Black/ Mordian Blue mix: Inside of cape. First use a slightly lighter mix of Chaos Black/ Mordian Blue (mix 1:10) than you used as a basecoat. Then one more (slightly lighter shade) on the tops of the ridges and folds. 
• Mordian Blue/ Skull White mix. (10:2) on the cross of the breastplate on the base.
• Boltgun Metal: Reapply to edges of weapons, including throwing stars on belt, breastplate on base, tip of hood (loos like a small mace head) etc, but leaving the wash in areas where shadows should be.
• Dwarf Bronze/ Shining Gold mix (1:1): Edges of crosspiece on swords, rim of breastplate on base, Bracers on wrists etc.
• Tallarn Flesh/ Dwarf Flesh mix: (1:1) Skin, feet, tail etc. then...
• Dwarf Flesh/ Elf Flesh mix: (1:1) on the same areas, leaving some of the previous darker shade.
• Bleached Bone/ Skull White mix: (2:1) Skeleton on base, teeth, nails, bandages on feet/ face
• Snakebite Leather/ Skull White mix: (2:1) belt
• Dark Angels Green/Goblin Green mix: (1:1) mix for the Jewel on clasp and poison on blades. Follow this with Goblin Green, and then Goblin Green/ Skull White mix (2/1). For the poison, have the lighter colours at the top of the poison, on the blade, and leave the "drops" of poison darker.
• Calthan Brown/ Vermin Brown: (1:1) Rats on base

Although taken after completion, this detail shows highlights on the hands, cape, poison etc.

Step 7: Drybrushing.

Another step that adds highlights. 

Put some of your highlight colour on your brush.Run your brush over kitchen paper (or a tissue is OK) until there is almost no paint on the brush. Then run the brush very lightly across the raised areas of the model to which you want to add the highlight colour. This should leave the highlight colour only on the raised edges. (Again, information on How To Paint Miniatures is a good guide!)

• Codex Grey/ Chaos Black: (5:1 mix) Trousers, on raised folds, and back of cape, on raised folds.
• Chainmail: Weapon edges

You can just see the folds of the cape have been drybrushed Codex Grey

Step 8: Final Basing.

The last step (phew!) adding colours to the base.

1. Calthan Brown drybrush across the sand (not the rocks/ crushed Coral)
2. Calthan Brown/ Skull white mix (3/1) drybrush across the sand.
3. Codex Grey: drybrush across the sand. Paint onto the rocks.
4. Codex Grey/ Fortress Grey mix (1:1). drybrush across sand and edges of rocks.
5. Fortress Grey: Drybrush across sand and edges of rocks.

Base detail.

Step 9: Collapse!

(_ _')

 All comment and criticism welcome!

Cheers,

*Squeek*