Showing posts with label Gloomhaven. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gloomhaven. Show all posts

Saturday, October 9, 2021

A new Journey in the Dark...Farewell to the King?

 

The 'Originals'

After 63 missions our party appears to be nearing the end of our time in Gloomhaven. We aren't quite finished yet, and our recent missions have given us a few more locations to explore, but the end is nigh...

...and that prompted thoughts of looking for a new game.

How did we get here?

During the first year and a half of the pandemic (coming on for 2 years at time of writing) we have met virtually and played twice a week for two hours each time using Roll20 and Skype. Between chatting, strategizing, and analysis paralysis it usually takes about two sessions to finish a mission (4 hours a map!). So, we've explored, delved and stabbed our way through about 252 hours of gameplay (not including revisiting one or two maps to farm XP or complete personal quests.) Frankly, the game has been a godsend in keeping us occupied while social distancing and not being able to meet in person.

With the  growing realisation that GH may actually END (before you ask, I'm not going to replay!)  I started looking around for a new board game to play. From enjoying GH, I knew that I liked dungeon delving, looting, character sheets and tactical combat, so when I heard about Descent 2nd edition I thought I would take a look. I watched plenty of YouTube reviews and took the plunge. A couple of weeks later a lovely blue box arrived....

Descent 2nd edition box art (c)Fantasy Flight Games 2012

...which in terms of timing was a terrible decision! 

2nd edition has just gone out of print, Legends of the Dark has dropped and the publisher is no longer creating any 2nd edition content. This also means that 2e existing content, like lieutenant packs and expansions, are selling for their actual weight in gold on ebay and around the world (I noticed someone trying to sell an expansion box for 450 US dollars the other day in Japan, where I live.) 

Still, I'm keeping an eye on eBay for the occasional deal, and restricting myself to a few simple goals: 

  1. Make a box/ game organiser.
  2. Paint all core set minis to tabletop quality as fast as possible before a 1st game.
  3. Find and own all pieces for the 2nd edition box (lieutenants are just cardboard tokens? I see what you did there FFG...)
  4. Own and try one expansion.
  5. Download and use the 
In the coming days and weeks I'll post updates on all of these things, starting with making myself a simple and very low cost box organiser. 

Does it matter that 2e is a relic now? Hell no. I've always used this blog to help motivate myself to paint, and this is no different.

Let's do this!

*Squeek*



Sunday, January 17, 2021

A Gloomhaven Family Photo (all 18 Gloomhaven miniatures painted)

End of a (painting) Journey

I've finally not only painted all 18 miniatures that come in the Gloomhaven box but also managed to photo them as a group. Previously I listed up all miniatures in three different posts of six, each of which have notes on paints used. You can find those...
  1. Here (part 1: Starting 6 characters, Cragheart, Spellweaver, Brute, Tinkerer, Mindthief, Scoundrel)
  2. Here (part 2: Angry Face, Sun, Circles, Eclipse, Two Minis/ Bear Face) and...
  3. Here (part 3: Lightning Bolts, Saw, Cthulu, Music Note, Three Spears, Triangles)
Below the spoiler images, I've put some final photos of the whole group, and then of each group noted above.

Fortunately even though the painting is finished (apart from some touch ups I can see already) the adventure continues as my gaming group is still working our way through the game.

I hope you enjoy the photos.



The gang is all here!







Monday, January 4, 2021

Painted Gloomhaven Miniatures #2 (Angry Face, Sun, Circles, Eclipse, Bear face)

 Six more Gloomhaven Adventurers...

In part one of this three part series I posted the "starting" six characters which are unlocked as you start your Gloomhaven adventure. As a new mercenary, you can choose any of these to begin your career. Each player receives a "personal quest". Once that is achieved, your character retires and you unlock a new character and their mini in a box (you actually have more options than that, but that is the gist of it!).

In this part I look at six more characters, with some basic info on techniques. A key difference from the starting six was that I tried new techniques on the bases for four of them. This was to keep things fresh and interesting. 

To keep things unspoiled for those who haven't unlocked them yet, I'll post their codenames below (used on different sites to keep their class names anonymous), and then under the spoiler banner will use their actual names.

Characters shown in this post:
  • Angry face
  • Sun
  • Concentric Circles/ Circles
  • Eclipse
  • Bear Face 1/ Bear Face 2/ (Two minis)
WARNING: Below the spoiler line I'll use their real class names!

Image by: Amiramin695 on wikimedia commons (CCby SA4.0)

Image by: Amiramin695 on wikimedia commons (CCby SA4.0)

NOTE:

When I mention the paints I will say something like:
"(Part of Model) > basecoat colour name > wash name> highlight/ drybrush paint name" 
However when actually painting I would do ALL the basecoats first, then ALL the washes, and finally ALL the highlights/ drybrushes etc. :-)

Angry Face (Doomstalker)




After a Wraithbone undercoat:
  • Hair: Contrast Aethermatic Blue
  • Skin: Contrast Magos Purple, Tallarn Flesh (highlight) then Tallarn Flesh/ Elf Flesh (50/50 mix as final highlight.)
  • Cape: Contrast Ork Flesh
  • Loincloth/ sash: Contrast Blood Angels Red
  • Leather belt/ quiver/ shoulder straps: Mournfang Brown, Agrax Earthshade (wash), Vermin Brown (highlight). For a final lighter highlight, use Vermin Brown/ Corax White 50/50 mix.
  • Buckles: Leadbelcher, Nuln Oil (wash), Runefang Steel (highlight)
  • Arrow fletchings: Contrast Spacewolf Grey
  • Spaulders (shoulder armour): Leadbelcher, Nuln Oil (wash), Runefang Steel (highlight)
    • Feathers (?) Contrast Talassar Blue/ Contrast Iyanden Yellow
  • Leg wraps: Contrast Snakebite Leather
  • Knife blade: Leadbelcher, then Nuln Oil (wash), then Runefang Steel (highlight)
  • Knife guard/ pommel: Dwarf Bronze, Nuln Oil (wash),  Auric Armour Gold (highlight)
  • Bow: Vermin Brown, then Agrax Earthshade (wash) then Vermin Brown (highlight). Bow fittings use Contrast Talassar Blue.
  • Leather cuffs: Contrast Snakebite Leather
  • Eyes: Corax White, Abaddon Black
  • Base: To make the floor boards effect.
    • Use craft knife to score lines across the base.
    • Use different browns for different boards. e.g. Vermin Brown, Mournfang Brown.
    • Wash with Agrax Earthshade, making sure grooves/ lines have shade so they will appear dark later.
    • Being careful to leave dark areas in grooves, highlight with the same browns used earlier.
    • "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish

Sun (Sunkeeper)





Gotta say, this is one of my favourite models. The base worked out well (IMHO), which was a relief as I tried to branch out a bit in style while matching the very light sand colour used on some of the map tiles in the game. Also the gold highlights on the armour added some bling!

After a Wraithbone undercoat:
  • Hair: Contrast Spacewolves Grey
  • Skin: Contrast Guilliman Flesh, then Tallarn Flesh Highlights, finally Tallarn Flesh/ Elf Flesh 50/50 mix highlight
  • Eyes: Abaddon Black, Corax White
  • Cape: Contrast Blood Angels Red OR Contrast Fleshtearer Red, followed by a Wild Rider Red (highlights of cape edges only)
  • Shield: 
    • Wood: Contrast Cygor Brown.
    • Rim: Auric Armour Gold highlights.
  • Armour: Lots of gold and steel here...
    • Gold: Mournfang Brown basecoat, then Auric Armour Gold, Agrax Earthshade (wash), then Auric Armour Gold highlights or drybrush.
    • Steel: Leadbelcher, Nuln Oil (wash), Runefang Steel (highlight)
  • Warhammer: Use same colours as armour, but use a light brown (Vermin Brown) for handle.
  • Base: I tried to model this on sandstone flagstones.
    • "Grass": Before painting main colours, add the "Grass". Dab a few spots of watered down wood glue, then dip the whole base into modelling sand and remove. Leave to dry for a few minutes then blow/ tap off the sand that hasn't set in the glue. After drying completely, paint Contrast Cygor Brown on the sand. Once dry, drybrush with a green (Moot Green etc.)  
    • Flagstones: Paint the rest of the base with a dark brown (e.g. Mournfang Brown). Then, paint in the flagstones using an off-white (e.g. Wraithbone) being careful to leave thin lines of brown between them. Finally, use a lighter shade of off-white on each side of all the brown lines (e.g. Dheneb Stone)
    • "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish.

Concentric Circles/ Aesther Summoner






If you are OK with keeping things simple, the Summoner is definitely one of the easiest models to paint. This is lucky, as the game artwork shows the character to be almost translucent, or ghost-like. To keep the model interesting to the eye I decided to again do something a little bit different with the base by including a stone circle made of small pebbles. This was then further customised by adding some simple mystical symbols. Easy to do, but it made the model "my own".

After a Wraithbone undercoat:
  • Skin/ hair: Contrast Apothecary White
  • Bracelets: Mournfang brown, Dwarf Bronze, Auric Armour Gold (highlight)
  • Staff:
    • Body: Contrast Spacewolves Grey
    • Head: Contrast Talassar Blue, into Contrast Aethermatic Blue.
  • Everything else: (cloak, robes, leggings etc.) Contrast Magos Purple
  • Base:
    1. Stone circle. Do this first. Select a few stones with interesting colours and shapes. To make a pile of stones glue two or three together vertically. Paint on mystic symbols of your choice. Finally use superglue to glue pebbles onto the base in a circular design.
    2. Sand/ earth: Watered down wood glue, dipped into modelling sand, then Contrast Cygor Brown (when dry!)
    3. "Grass": Dab on a few areas of watered-down white glue/ wood glue, and sprinkle green modeling flock. 
    4. "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish. 

Eclipse/ Nightshroud

You might think that the Nightshroud would be the simplest to paint - after all the character is basically black, inky darkness! However this makes it a bit harder to make the model interesting, and although it needs fewer colours than many of the other characters, I found it difficult to makes things stand out. To combat this I tried a simple Object Source Lighting (OSL) effect, and had another go at making a cobblestone base (not entirely successfully!).

This tutorial at lightminiatures gives a really good overview of OSL. For the sake of time I didn't use this depth of technique, but it helped me understand light and light sources better so I could then try a glow coming from the Nightshroud's raised hand and reflected in his face.



After a Wraithbone undercoat:
  • Boots, gloves, hood, face, scabbard: Abaddon Black
  • Tabard: Abaddon Black, then very light drybrush of Adeptus Mechanicus Grey (or other dark grey) to pick out cross-hatch pattern. Finally a dark blue (Mordian Blue) drybrush on the fringe of the tabard.
  • Leggings, shirt, knee pads: Contrast Black Templar
    • On knee pads then do a dark blue (Mordian Blue) drybrush.
  • Knee pads: Mordian blue
  • Scabbard (waist): 
    • Scabbard body: Abaddon black.
    • Chape (reinforced scabbard tip) and Locket (reinforced top of scabbard): Mournfang Brown, then Dwarf Bronze (highlight), then Auric Armour Gold (final highlight).
    • Baldrick: Mournfang brown, then Agrax Earthshade wash, then Mournfang highlights.
  • Sword and scabbard (back):
    • Scabbard Body: Mournfang brown, then Agrax Earth wash. Locket:  Dwarf Bronze.
    • Sword grip: Mordian blue.
    • Sword pommel: Dwarf Bronze, then Auric Shining Armour (highlight)
  • Drawn Sword:
    • Sword cross-guard and pommel: Dwarf Bronze, then Auric Shining Armour (highlight)
    • Blade: Leadbelcher, then Nuln Oil wash, finally Runefang Steel
    • Cobbled base*
      • For cobbles: Draw in using Mechanicus Standard Grey, leaving black lines between cobbles (or add black lines later). Then add some lighter layers of grey: 50/50 mix Mechanicus Grey/ Russ Grey. Finally lighter edge lines of light grey.
      • Finally, add Middenland Tuft grass to taste. 
    • "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish.
* For an excellent video on how to paint cobblestones please visit Terrainosaur's YouTube video here.

Bear Face (Two minis)/ Beast Tyrant






I loved doing the Vermling Beast Tyrant for two reasons. 
ONE: To do the Beast Tyrant himself I could follow the same approach as the Vermling Mindthief (with a couple of small additions.) 
TWO: The tyrant's bear is perfect for Contrast paints, which would make him very fast to do. I imagined them as old friends, and that the bear would be a companion and survivor of many battles - perhaps older than the Tyrant himself. This is why he is grey, not brown.

Beast Tyrant:

  • Painted basically as with the Vermling Mindthief, in the first part of this series.
    • Changed lower robe to Contrast Ork Flesh.
    • Bracelets: Mournfang Brown, then Dwarf Bronze (highlight), OPTIONAL: Auric Shining Armour (highlight)
    • Staff: Contrast Cygor Brown
      • Tip: Contrast Blood Angels Red, with Wild Rider Red edge highlights.

Bear:

  • Fur: Contrast Spacewolves Grey
  • Wooden Armour: 
    • Eyes: Moot Green
    • Nose: Abaddon Black
    • Mouth: Reikland Fleshshade (wash), teeth picked out with Wraithbone
    • Wood panels (haunches, face, neck): Contrast Gore Grunta Fur
    • Side panels: Contrast Gore Grunta fur (lower), Contrast Snakebite Leather (upper).
    • Spikes: Leadbelcher, Nuln Oil wash, Runefang Steel (highlight)
    • Saddle: Ushabti Bone, then Gryphonne Sepia or Seraphim Sepia (wash). Fringe is Contrast Ork Flesh
    • Base: Watered down wood glue, dipped into modelling sand, then Contrast Cygor Brown (when dry!).  Middenland Tuft grass. "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish.
I hope you like the models. In the next and final post I'll add Three Spears, Music Note, Triangles, Lightning Bolt, Saw, and Cthulu.

Cheers!

Saturday, January 2, 2021

Painted Gloomhaven Miniatures (Starting six characters)

One of the attractions of Gloomhaven is the different characters that you can play, and the excitement that comes from retiring your character and starting a new one. Each time, you get to open a new envelope that describes that character AND a model box which has their tabletop model. 

If you are like me you enjoy all of this, but you also want to see those models painted. Last week I finished the final two of the 18 models that come in the box, so thought I would share them here, starting with the first 6 (unlocked) characters.

To paint these, I focused on:

  1. Speed. I used Games Workshop Contrast Paints for all organic material - this saves time because I don't have to do a separate wash. I used regular Games Workshop paints for other materials. (I use GW simply because that is what I have. Other ranges are just as good - or better depending on who you talk to!)
  2. Bases. I wanted to have each model based, as I feel this always ties a model together, even if the base is very simple. My attempts range from super simple (sand with a brown basecoat on most of the starting six) to trying to do something different (some bases painted to match the hex designs in the game, and a cobblestone effect I hadn't tried before.)

Below you will find all of the models, starting with the opening 6 characters that are available when you start the game. With some I've added a couple of comments. In the coming days I'll post the other 12 finished models too. 

A word of warning: Please note I'm not claiming to be an expert! These are "Tabletop" quality. Designed to be fine for a game when viewed from 2-3 feet away, but not for trying to win any painting prizes etc.(and I couldn't even if I tried!) 

:-)

Starting Six Characters


Gloomhaven starting 6 classes



General painting approaches used throughout:

  1. Undercoat whole model (including base) in a light colour (e.g Wraithbone). Spray cans are ideal for this.
  2. Do all the Contrast Paints first on organic materials. (e.g. leather, wood, fabric, skin).
  3. Tidy up any mistakes with Wraithbone. Make sure all non-organic areas are carefully covered with Wraithbone, ready for next step.
  4. Do "Normal" (non-contrast) paints on non-organics (e.g metals, metallic armour, glass, belt buckles, gems etc.)
  5. Add "washes" onto the normal paints to add depth and shadows.(e.g. Nuln Oil on top of a metallic paint.)
  6. Highlight washed areas with normal paints OR do a drybrush. (e.g. On a metallic paint that had a Nuln Oil wash, now go over with the original metallic paint again, but leaving the Nuln Oil in the dips and shadows to add depth. Then use a lighter version of the original metallic paint as a highlight (or drybrush.) 
    1. For example, on a metal blade: Leadbelcher (basecoat), Nuln Oil (wash), Leadbelcher again, then Runefang Steel (highlight). OPTIONAL: Drybrush Runefang steel (to pick out raised areas/ edges.)
OK, with that out of the way let's get going!

Mindthief

Vermling Mindthief



With the Mindthief you can see immediately how useful Contrast paints can be. The blue robes just get painted once, and the paint flows and gathers into the folds of the robe naturally, meaning they are done in one pass.

After undercoating with Wraithbone, painted using:
  • Robes: Contrast Talassar Blue
  • Fur: Contrast Space Wolves Grey
  • Skin: Contrast Guilliman Flesh
  • Belt: Contrast Snakebite Leather
  • Knife blade: Leadbelcher
  • Knife guard: Mournfang Brown, then Agrax Earthshade wash, Dwarf Bronze (guard highlight)
  • Bracelet: Mournfang Brown, then Dwarf Bronze (highlight)
  • Potions: Contrast Ork Flesh, then Moot Green, then a spot of 'ardcoat varnish to make glisten.
  • Eyes: Lothern Blue.
  • Base: Watered down wood glue, dipped into modelling sand, then Contrast Cygor Brown (when dry!). Middenland Tuft grass. "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish.

Scoundrel

Scoundrel



After undercoating with Wraithbone, painted using:
  • "Skirt": Contrast Ork Flesh
  • Hair: Contrast Cygor Brown
  • Leg/ cloth: Contrast Space Wolves Grey
  • Skin: Contrast Guilliman Flesh, Tallarn Flesh (highlight)
  • Leather armour/ leather thigh boots/ belt/ scabbards: Contrast Snakebite Leather 
  • Chest armour, forearm armour: Leadbelcher, then Nuln Oil wash, then Leadbelcher highlights, then Runefang Steel drybrush.
  • Knife: Leadbelcher (weapon blade), Nuln Oil wash, Runefang steel dry brush. Optional: Add "poison" along the blade edge: Contrast Ork Flesh
  • Knife guard: Mournfang Brown, Dwarf Bronze (guard highlight)
  • Knee pads: Abaddon Black, then drybrush Leadbelcher
  • Backscabbard: Contrast Snakebite Leather, Leadbelcher (on fittings), then Nuln Oil wash (on fittings) then Runefang Steel highlights.
  • Mask: Contrast Black Templar
  • Base: Watered down wood glue, dipped into modelling sand, then Contrast Cygor Brown (when dry!).  Middenland Tuft grass. "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish.

Brute

Inox Brute



The Brute is another model that works really well with Contrast Paints as almost everything on his is an organic material. His cloak is huge and covers almost the whole of the rear of the model, making that side really quick to finish.

After undercoating with Wraithbone, painted using:
  • Horns: Contrast Snakebite Leather
  • Skin: Contrast Space Wolves Grey
  • Teeth/ Mouth: Wraithbone highlights after doing skin (above)
  • Eyes: Abaddon Black, then Wild Rider Red (Highlight)
  • Furs: Contrast Gore Grunta Fur
  • Leather forearm armour: Contrast Snakebite Leather 
  • Shoulder pads: Mournfang Brown, then Dwarf Bronze, then Nuln Oil (wash), then Dwarf Bronze (highlights or drybrush). Optional bling: Drybrush Auric Armour Gold.
  • Belt: Dwarf Bronze, then Nuln Oil (wash), then Dwarf Bronze or Auric Armour Gold (drybrush.)
  • Chest "armour"/ ribs:Mournfang Brown, Dwarf Bronze (highlight)
  • Gems: Moot Green, then Moot Green/ White 50/50 mix (highlight), 'Ardcoat varnish.
  • Sword: Leadbelcher (weapon blade), Nuln Oil wash, Runefang steel dry brush.
  • Knee pad skulls: Contrast Skeleton Horde, then Ushabti Bone (highlights)
  • Shield: 
    • Inside: Contrast Cygor Brown.
    • Rim/ Boss: Dwarf Bronze, then Runefang Steel (edge highlights)
    • Hide covering: Mournfang Brown, then Vermin Brown.
    • Brute symbol:Agrax Earthshade.
  • Base: Watered down wood glue, dipped into modelling sand, then Contrast Cygor Brown (when dry!). Middenland Tuft grass. "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish.

Spellweaver

Spellweaver


After undercoating with Wraithbone, painted using:
  • Hair/ chest: Contrast Aethermatic Blue
  • Skin: Contrast Magos Purple
  • Eyes: Abaddon Black, then Wild Rider Red (Highlight)
  • Robes: Contrast Blood Angels Red
  • Shoulder pads, forearm armour, leg armour, wrist cuffs shorts: Contrast Snakebite Leather 
  • Stud (on front of belt): Leadbelcher, then Runefang Steel (highlight)
  • Coins (on back of belt): Mournfang Brown, then Dwarf Bronze, then Nuln Oil (wash), then Dwarf Bronze (highlights or drybrush). Optional bling: Drybrush Auric Armour Gold
  • Magic "flames"
    • from hands: Contrast Aethermatic Blue
    • on base: Contrast Talassar Blue, leading up to Contrast Aethermatic Blue
  • Base: Watered down wood glue, dipped into modelling sand, then Contrast Cygor Brown (when dry!). Middenland Tuft grass. "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish. "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish.

Tinkerer

Quatryl Tinkerer


After undercoating with Wraithbone, painted using:
  • Skin/ scalp: Contrast Iyanden Yellow
  • Eyes: Abaddon Black, then Lothern Blue
  • Goggles: Abaddon Black, then Mordian Blue, Lothern Blue highlight, 'Ardcoat.
  • Rucksack, chest, coat, legs: Contrast Snakebite Leather. 
    • Buckles: Leadbelcher, then Runefang Steel highlight.
  • Tinkerer symbol (on chest): Contrast Aethermatic Blue.
  • Pteruges (tassel-like armour protecting waist and groin): Snakebite Leather, then Lothern Blue detail.
  • Metal utility belt: Leadbelcher, then Nuln Oil wash, then Runefang Steel highlight.
  • Potion: Contrast Ork Flesh, then Moot Green highlight.
  • Arms/ crossbow/ shoulder quiver/ thigh knife: Leadbelcher, then Nuln Oil wash, then Runefang Steel drybrush.
  • Armour (Shoulder, knees, vambraces, greaves): Dwarf Bronze, then Nuln Oil (wash), then Dwarf Bronze (highlights or drybrush). Optional bling: Drybrush Auric Armour Gold
  • Cobbled base*: For cobbles: Mechanicus Standard Grey, leaving black lines (or add black lines later). Then add some lighter layers of grey: 50/50 mix Mechanicus Grey/ Russ Grey. Finally lighter edge lines of light grey. After all painting, paint on some very thin lines of watered down wood glue and dip in flock. Finally, add Middenland Tuft grass to taste. "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish.
* I'm not very happy with the way the cobbles turned out, but this was my first try. they look very "flat" and waaaaaay too big. For an awesome video on how to paint cobblestones but that may add a lot of time to each miniature, visit Terrainosaur's YouTube video here.

Cragheart

Savvas Cragheart



The Cragheart is probably the easiest (and fastest) model to paint. He (it!) is also the second character I played after my Mindthief retired. Although I wanted to make "Ricky Balboa" a bit of a bruiser his loincloth turned out pinker than I'd hoped...
...still, if anyone can wear pink with confidence it is an element-wielding, earth-slinging, rock creature adventurer!

After undercoating with Wraithbone, painted using:
  • Skin/ scalp: Contrast Space Wolf Grey
  • Eyes: Abaddon black, then a layer of Corax White (leaving a black outline)
  • Belt, shoulder armour, wrist cuffs: 
    • Belt - Leather sides: Contrast Snakebite Leather.
    • Belt - Metal front/ back: Dwarf Bronze, Agrax Earthshade wash, Dwarf Bronze highlight, finally a Auric Armour Gold drybrush or edge highlight. 
    • Shoulder armour (spaulders): As above, but do a final edge highlight of Runefang Steel on the upper edges where light would fall, or to show where the brighter metal has worn away.
  • "Heart": Contrast Black Templar.
  • Loincloth: Contrast Magos Purple
  • Base: Abaddon Black, then watered down wood glue, dipped into modelling sand, then Contrast Cygor Brown (when dry!). Middenland Tuft grass. "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish.
There you have the "Starting 6". In my next post I'll cover 6 more models, so watch this space.
Thanks for stopping by and reading.
:-)


Wednesday, December 30, 2020

Cheap Gloomhaven Storage Organiser options

As well as painting and playing Warhammer, our gaming group likes to play boardgames and try different systems. We have at least one "serious" boardgame addict collector who (luckily for us!) has some great games, so I've had the opportunity to try games like Lords of Waterdeep, Pandemic, Zombicide and Dead of Winter. I've also collected a few different games such as X-Wing and Dust Tactics, While other friends own games like Werewolf.

Enjoying all these different games led me to recently order Gloomhaven, as it brings together several different themes that I really like:
  • Miniatures.
  • Tactical combat.
  • A new fantasy world (Gloomhaven avoids many of the races you see is "Standard" fantasy).
  • A role-playing/ story experience.
..and lots and lots and lots of bits and pieces in the box!

If you don't know Gloomhaven, the first thing to know is that it was released in 2017 or so and immediately took the boardgame community by storm thanks to its huge amount of content and mix of game mechanics. Many have said that it isn't necessarily innovative, but that it brings together many different mechanics into one smooth package. It is also a "Legacy" game, meaning that it is intended to be played through as a campaign once, and then finished. Game characters will level up and retire, while other new ones will be introduced as part of the story. (You can play the game again of course, but you just need to bear this in mind as you go through, thinking about when to not use stickers or rip up cards that are used.)

The second thing to know is that this game is HUGE. The box is huge (about 10Kg), the story is huge (100+ hour campaign?) and the amount of stuff used is...HUGE difficult to manage!

Here is what you get:
  • 723 Standard sized cards (2.5" x 3.5") 
  • 975 Mini Euro sized cards (44mm x 68mm) 
  • 18 miniatures 
...and many thick card floor tiles, obstacles, traps, terrain and more. For this reason a whole industry has sprung up of Gloomhaven box "organizers". These are often MDF kits (some assembly required) that fit into the original box and keep all of the pieces together. The benefit of this is that setup of a game can be reduced from more than 30 minutes laying stuff out to just a few minutes. 

The downside is the cost. 

Although there are many variants and manufacturers, the nicest ones are 60~90 US dollars. At the higher end that is almost as much as you might pay for the game itself. At the very reasonable end is something like the excellent Y.A.S.S (Yet Another Storage Solution), full information for which you'll find on Board Game Geek. YASS uses Plano boxes/ tackle boxes and users have created inserts to help the user find the monsters. 

As I'd just spent more than 100 dollars for the game, I didn't have any spare cash for a nice organizer. So, inspired by YASS I headed over to a 100 Yen shop (I live in Tokyo) to see what I can find.

I quickly realized that directly copying YASS wouldn't work as the storage options on display were different. However when in the store a Google search led me to a Japanese Gloomhaven site that really helped me. Hats off to "Shiro's Boardgame Room" and the excellent post there on using 100 Yen goods to organize his set (without this post I would have been lost and much more trial and error involved.) If you don't read Japanese my variation on the ideas there are below:

What did I get?
  • x2 boxes for monster tokens.
  • x1 large overlay tile and stands box (2 and 3 tile overlays like obstacles, tables etc.)
  • x1 status token box (11 spaces, with movable divisions.)
  • x2 "Medal Case 36" boxes (the Japanese name) for single tokens/ tiles. (18.6 x 14.2 x 1.6)
  • x3 Pill box sets for wound/ status tokens and kitbashing spaces. (3 small "snap shut" boxes in each set) - These are actually used in the Monster Tokens box as subdividers.
  • A4 label paper printing stickers (x5 sheets). For organizing monsters and tokens.
  • x2 Packs of drawer organizers for dividing the box and cards
Below, I'll go through these one by one. The dimensions are provided, but if you have something within a couple of millimeters you should be fine.

x2 Boxes for Monster Tokens:

(23.2 x 17.0 x 3.7)




As you can see, these boxes actually have 15 compartments and then I used the pill boxes to subdivide the larger compartment at the top into a further three. This allowed me to store more monsters. NOT perfectly in alphabetical order though, as some monsters can only be accommodated in certain areas of the box. Still I think this will help. (See below for more information on pill boxes).

x1 Large Overlay tiles and Stands Box

(23.3 x 17.0 x 3.4)
This used the "Sicari 10" mentioned earlier, which has ten slots. I used this for the larger overlay tiles and monster and character stands. You can see in the second picture below that I made one cut to allow the large x3 tile "Hot coals" tile to fit in snugly.



x1 Status Token Box

(19.9 x 13.4 x 3.7)
This includes a variety of tiles that wouldn't fit elsewhere (e.g. treasure) and all the various status tokens like Poison, Strengthen, Wounded, etc.


X2 Single Tile Boxes

(18.6 x 14.2 x 1.6)
The x2 "Medal" case boxes are perfect for keeping single tiles and summon tracker tokens safe. They are also slim.

Pill Boxes

(11.4 x 6.4 x 3.4)

I bought x3 of these, as they are so useful. You can cut each up into x3 smaller individual boxes, or use them as a set of three. I used x1 set of three as an overflow to store anything that wouldn't go anywhere else. Here is an image:


A4 label printing paper

I found some "Old parchment" style images on Google, imported these into a Word processor (I use the excellent and free LibreOffice - give it a try!) then added some text using a font I found here called "FairyDust". This is an OpenDocument format (ODT) that you can download here from Google Drive. ODT files should open in later versions of M.S. Word (or download LibreOffice!)



Using the same system I created a table in the document, customized it, and added monster names as alphabetically as possible, highlighting the letters to help me find monsters more easily for scenario setups. I then printed and cut these out and stuck them on the inside of the box lid.

Drawer organisers to divide box

Finally, I also used "drawer organisers" to help me divide up the space in the Gloomhaven box and allow vertical storage and separate of cards. Originally designed to help you tidy up your desk drawer, there are supremely flexible. They come in packs, which you simply break up to the size you want, then slot together.


Here you can see how I organised my Gloomhaven box using these:


...all together now!

So here is how everything fits together. If I include the rulebook and scenario book the box will close, but not quite all the way. It is about a centimeter or so from the bottom of the box. Good enough (IMHO).

1: Core content and cards with drawer organisers

2. Left:  x2 Monster token and x1 large tile overlay boxes

3. Added x1 Status token box and x1 Pill box 

4. x2 "Medal boxes" with Single Tile overlays

5. All map tiles inserted


Voila! Even if you can't get the exact same materials I did, I hope this will provide a few ideas for approaches that you can apply to your Gloomhaven box.

Thanks for reading.

:-)

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