Thursday, December 30, 2010

NEW Skaven Tretch Craventail, Warp Grinder Weapon Team and Heraldry Book!

*Squeek*

Yesterday, I posted about the NEW Hell Pit Abomination, Plagueclaw Catapult/ Warp Lightning Cannon, Ikit Claw and Battle Magic: Skaven sets now available for pre-order at GW. (You can find that post here.) THAT post took quite a while to put together, and NOW, as if that wasn't enough, I notice more new models to add to my horde...
...Tretch Craventail
...a Warp-Grinder Weapon Team
...and a book - "Uniforms and Heraldry of the Skaven."

Some thoughts, information and photos below (with a full list of links at the end.)

Tretch Craventail

Copyright Games Workshop.
Please visit http://www.games-workshop.com/














Like like? Well, it is great to have a good Tretch Craventail model! Tretch is another one of those Skaven Lords with a good back-story and a great character to have on your army. Although (as regular readers know) I can make no claim to having lots of tabletop experience I am sure that the "Tretch's Raiders" rule that he brings to the battle would be useful: re-roll failed To Hit rolls when attacking from the flank or rear of the enemy unit? Yes please!

No-like? I'm personally undecided as to whether I like models that stick up from raised bases. (Warlord Queek Headtaker is another example.)
I think the reasons for doing it are good:
- the character rises above the rest of his unit
- it provides a really nice focal point in a horde army for the cool characters
- it allows for much more interesting sculpting (I'd assume - I've never sculpted anything!). Notice in this case the way the tail is unfurled (very rare in the Skaven models I think), and also the very nice feeling of weight that comes from having the flail fully extended. (Queek Headtaker's backbanner is another example of the freedom I suppose this brings.)

Somehow though I think I personally prefer a model that fits onto a regular base rather than have a larger piece that brings it's own chunk of masonry, but that is just me! Do I think this will stop me purchasing? Not a chance...

This model is listed as being available from Jan 15th 2011.

Warp-Grinder Weapon Team
Copyright Games Workshop.
Please visit http://www.games-workshop.com/














As a model, I like the look of this. Others on the web have commented on the mixed quality of the weapon teams in the Island of Blood set. The Poisoned Wind Mortar in particular has not been very popular in some warrens as it doesn't look very "Skavenish" - the smooth barrel of the launcher tube and lack of "bits" being one potential cause of this gnashing of (long, yellowed) incisors. In contrast however, I think this model is better detailed. I like the drill bit, wires and dynamo/ power unit held by the rear operator (who I BET wants to change places with the Grinder operator.)

On the tabletop, I had never really thought about having a Warp-Grinder team in my horde until now. I guess I have been too busy just trying to finish the basic models that I have! On seeing this model however, I give it more consideration. Giving my opponent some heartburn about a unit appearing in his backline and perhaps forcing him to keep a unit back to deal with that perceived threat would be worth the cost...
...if any reader has had any success with Warp-Grinder teams please let me know!

This model is available from Jan 15th 2011.


"Uniforms and Heraldry of the Skaven"


Copyright Games Workshop.
Please visit http://www.games-workshop.com/

Copyright Games Workshop.
Please visit http://www.games-workshop.com/


This is a 72 page hardback book with detail on the major clans and their uniforms. This is a new addition to the " Uniforms and Heraldry" series which currently consists of "Uniforms and Heraldry of the Empire".

Oddly enough, I am quite excited about this as I love these kinds of "reference" books. This interest was prompted by the childhood discovery on my dad's bookshelf of a few titles in the Osprey "Men at Arms" Series for some units of the ancient world. These fascinated me for hours and hours with their background to the military unit in question (maps, commentary) and the beautiful illustrations of the uniforms and weapons of the army featured. They also (I think) had background on the weapons used, including photos of real ancient weapons from collections or recovered from archaeological digs etc.
(If you have any historical military units and you don't know this series definitely go and check it out!)

All the images above are from Games Workshop. For more information, detailed unit descriptions and more photos, please visit the pages below:

Tretch Craventail
Skaven Warp-Grinder Weapon Team
Uniforms and Heraldry of the Skaven
GW Skaven Advance Order Blog Post ("What's New", Wednesday 29th December)

I was exhausted from my scribblings on yesterday's long post - the energy this post has taken means I can already feel myself spiraling towards a bout of the Black Hunger!

*Squeek*

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

NEW Hell Pit Abomination/ Plague Claw Catapult/ Ikit Claw/ Doom Flayer/ Skaven Battle Magic Available for Pre-Order!

*Squeek*

Crikey, all those rumors and other photos from around the web were right...the new official Skaven models from GW are on their way. From early in the New Year, Skaven players will be able to purchase the following models to add to their all-conquering armies...
...the Hell Pit Abomination.
...a Plagueclaw Catapult/ Warp Lighting Cannon kit.
...a Skaven Doom-Flayer Weapons Team kit.
...a new Ikit Claw model.
...a Warhammer Battle Magic: Skaven pack.


Please note, it is made clear that two of these items, the Hell Pit Abomination and Warhammer Battle Magic Pack, are listed as "While Stocks Last". Therefore, once stock is sold out they will "no longer be available". (Of course, it isn't made clear how many kits there are...)


See below for some photos and further information on each model. At the end of this entry you will find a full list of links.

Hell Pit Abomination
Box shot:

Copyright Games Workshop.
Please visit www.games-workshop.com 


















One possible variation:
Copyright Games Workshop.
Please visit www.games-workshop.com


















...and another: (Notice the different configurations for the arms, head(s) and hand(s) etc.)
Copyright Games Workshop.
Please visit www.games-workshop.com


















-78 part kit.
-selection of Rat Ogre and Skaven heads.
- limb variations.
- etc.


Plagueclaw Catapult/ Warp Lightning Cannon
Now this is interesting - the Plagueclaw Catapult can ALSO be a Warplighting Cannon!

Box Shot:
Copyright Games Workshop.
Please visit www.games-workshop.com 


















Warp Lighting Cannon:
Copyright Games Workshop.
Please visit www.games-workshop.com 


















Plagueclaw Catapult:
Copyright Games Workshop.
Please visit www.games-workshop.com 


















I've got to say that I really like the look of this model!
Part of it is the possibilities that could arise from having two warmachines in one 51-part kit, and part of it is just the sheer appeal of the "pile of toxic sludge" included (that disgusting blob of plague-infested stuff in the picture above!). As there is already an incarnation of the Warp Lighting Cannon available, I am less excited about this new version -  it kind of looks a bit spindly and weak to me. (Having said that though, once people have played around with the kit a bit there may be ingenious ways of making both at the same time from one box...)

I note that this model isn't listed at the time of writing as a "While Stocks Last Item" (unlike the Hell Pit Abomination above) so hopefully this will be around for a while. According to the website, this item will available from the 15th January.

Ikit Claw
Finally, we have a new, metal model for Ikit Claw - the infamous Warlock Engineer...
Copyright Games Workshop.
Please visit www.games-workshop.com 


















Love the look of this one! Like the other models above, the feared Clan Skryre master engineer will be available from the 15th of January.

Skaven Doom-Flayer Weapon Team
For sheer ingenuity, any rat-lovin', surface-dweller-slicing, skaplayer has to love the Doom-Flayer! This is apparently a 5 part metal kit. Note that as of the time of writing no release date is given for this model. ("This item is not available now, but you can pre-order it.")

Photo:
Copyright Games Workshop.


















Warhammer Battle Magic: Skaven
I have to be honest with you, I don't really see the point of these Battle Magic sets.

Although GW claims that these are "...just what a Grey Seer needs to keep track of his spells in battle" I think that most Grey Seers would lose these cards or end up being slowed down by having to shuffle through them to find their magic. I'm going to take a wild guess and say that most players would take their Skaven army book to a battle anyway and that has all the spells already ( AND neatly laid out on a double page spread no less...)
Yeah, yeah, I know...call me "Squeek the Cynical" if you wish. (and "Squeek the Two-Faced" as well, because I'll probably order a pack as they are only 3.50 of your man-thing British Pounds...)

Photos...
Copyright Games Workshop.
















Copyright Games Workshop.



















All the photos and info above come from the U.K. Games Workshop website. Please head there (links below) to see extra-large, detailed shots for yourself and to read the full accompanying descriptions of each model - and no doubt place your pre-orders!



For Skaven players it's going to be a Happy (if very expensive!) New Year...
For our enemies - a year of TERROR!

*Neek, Neek, NEEEEEK!*

Friday, December 24, 2010

Step-by-Step Guide to Painting and Magnetizing Movement Trays.

*Squeek*

After thinking hard about movement trays and stressing about what size trays to make, I finally made some decisions and made up two sets of x5 files and x8 ranks. (Yes, that is 40 bases...) This was based on some good advice and comments, but also because Clanrats just feel good with about 40 in a unit to me right now (although I imagine that will change once I actually get a game - haha!)

In this post, I'll give a quick guide as to how I painted up the base you see to the left, and also how to get it magnetized. Note that here I'm dealing with the GW Modular Movement Tray set, which is untextured, but that the Textured Movement Trays would be a good choice if you don't want to bother with adding texture yourself.

EDIT: Following the launch of the latest Citadel Paint range in 2012, please note that the colours listed below are from the previous range. I hope to have time to rewrite in the future, but for the time being, you can use the conversion chart/ list I made here or use the official Citadel Conversion chart here.

If you are interested only in how I magnetized these bases, you may want to skip halfway down to the section imaginatively entitled "Magnetizing Movement Trays"...

Painting Movement Trays.
1. Cut and glue trays to desired size.
  • The size of tray you make up will depend on your intended play style. As the comments I received mentioned, if you use your units of Clanrats to attack only enemy units that have been weakened by magic or other distance attacks (weapon teams, Plague Catapults etc.) then you may only need units of 5x5. If you want to take advantage of the Horde rules in 8th edition, then you will need a unit at least x10 units wide. This would suit a playstyle where you are using a large unit to "Tar Pit" an enemy unit while you bring in another unit to attack their sides or flanks (The classic "Hammer and Anvil" approach.)...or so I have heard.
2. Add Texture.
  • Brush on PVA glue to the sides of the movement tray and along the top edge.
  • Over a newspaper, sprinkle liberal amounts of modelling sand onto the PVA. (Or, if you have a large ziplock bag full of sand, dip the PVA coated movement tray in the sand.)
  • Leave to dry. (30 mins - 1 hour)
  • Tap the underside of the movement tray repeatedly to dislodge loose sand.
3. Undercoat.
  • Undercoat the whole tray in Chaos Black (I use GW undercoat spray for this.) 
4. Basecoat.
  • Using a large brush, overbrush edges of the tray in an earthy colour. (GW Calthan Brown or equivalent).
5. Drybrushing.
  • Mix up a lighter tone of the basecoat. (e.g. GW Calthan Brown/ Skull White 75/25 mix) and drybrush all edges.
  • Finally, lightly drybrush using a light grey. (Fortress Grey or Codex Grey/ Fortress Grey 75/25 mix)
  • Allow to dry.
6. Flock.
  • Dab on PVA glue along the edge or top of the edge in areas where you want grass to be. Avoid doing this in too regular a pattern.
  • Over a newspaper, liberally sprinkle flock onto areas with PVA glue while it is still wet. (Or, if you have a large ziplock bag, fill that with flock and then dip the movement tray into it.)
  • Repeat until all sides are done. NOTE: I did one side of the movement tray with PVA, then flocked, then PVA on another side etc.
  • Leave to dry.
  • Once dry, tap the underside of the tray to dislodge any flock that is left over onto the newspaper, then collect all the dislodged flock so you can use it again.
7. Optional Details.
  • If you have time, consider strategically adding some clumps of modelling grass, discarded weapons, or other stuff from your bits box. This will add a bit of visual interest and can also nicely match whatever theme you have based your army with. (I think that my base above looks very, very, bland at the moment and could definitely do with some spicing up.)
Here are the trays, with some of my Clanrats...












Magnetizing Movement Trays.
I've never made movement trays before, let along magnetize them, so I am no expert!
A quick search on YouTube will show you lots of videos with good ideas. Below, I'll show you just what worked for me, using the resources that I could find in my local "100 Yen" store in Tokyo. To be honest, these may not be ideal and you may have access to other materials that would work better. (In many videos on the net, people use metal sheets on their movement trays, but I don't have a hardware store near me...)

Even if what I outline below doesn't work exactly for you, I hope it will provide some ideas...

1. Gather Materials.
a.) "Magnet Sheet". Usually comes with x2 sheets in a pack and (praise be!) in 100mm wide sizes (perfect for 20mm bases and units that are 5 models wide.) Make sure the thickness of each sheet is 1-2mm or so. (x1mm is ideal.) You will need at least x2 sheets.
b.) SuperGlue. I use Loctite, just because it comes in dinky little packs of x3 (for 100 Yen!) and seems to stick most things together well.
c.) Pen. Ideally a slim marker that will write on slick, glossy plastic.
d.) A ruler. We're gonna do some measuring!
e.) Scissors.
f.) Double-sided tape. (Not shown here.)

I paid for the magnet sheet (100 yen) and the Double-sided tape (100 yen). The other stuff I had at home. Grand total:
2.41 US Dollars or approx GBP 1.56 (at the time of writing.)

OK, off we go!

2. Check your model bases. 
You can see here that different models from GW can come with different bases. In this case, my Skaven had x2 different styles:





A classic "Slotta Base" (at left, above.) and a hollow base (at left, below.)
Depending on the kind of bases you have, (which I think depends on whether your models are from the Island of Blood boxed set or not) how you measure and do the next step will vary, so it is worth checking this out before you do anything else.

If you don't mind adding 1-2mm to the height of each model, then go ahead and mark out 20mm x 20mm squares as detailed below. However, if you use Slotta Bases and want a slightly recessed magnetic base that is almost flush the base, then cut out 18mm x 18mm squares.


3. Mark Out and Cut magnetic model bases.
If you are using Slotta bases and want to avoid adding height to your model, mark out 18mm x 18mm squares on your magnetic sheet (on the side that has plastic on it, NOT the magnetic side.) These are going to fit just IN the base, so they are recessed. You are going to glue them onto the cross-bars of the Slotta base.

If you have hollow bases, or don't mind adding 1-2mm to the height of each model, mark out your magnetic sheet with exactly 20mm x20mm squares. You are going to glue them onto the edges of the base. This will add 1mm to the height of your models. (Which is why you want magnetic sheet that is thin.) However, 1mm height doesn't really make a difference when on the tabletop.

I don't recommend using 18mm x 18mm squares with hollow bases. This is because:
a.) Once pressed into the base they will be x1-2mm recessed from the bottom of the base. Depending on the strength of the magnetic sheet you use (they are usually quite weak) your models might not end up be firmly magnetized.
b.) It will be harder to glue around the inside of the base and you will waste more glue.
c.) If you press the 18mm x 18mm square into the hollow base, it will be difficult to get the square level, again possibly weakening the magnetic connection.



REMEMBER: Leave enough magnetic sheet to cover the actual movement tray itself. In my example, my tray is 5x8 models, or 100mm x 160mm, so the left half of the sheet above is exactly the right size to fit into the movement tray.


Here are my finished 18x18mm magnetized model bases, ready to be glued. (I used scissors, but a modelling knife would of course do equally as well.)




4. Glue onto model base.
Apply glue to the magnetic base, plastic side up.

How you do this will depend on whether you are using the Slotta bases or flat bases, the key point is that you want the magnetic side facing down.



For Slotta Bases, apply a 10mm wide strip of glue, slightly offset from center. (You'll notice that the plastic cross bars from the slot actually aren't in the center of the base.)

Line up the glue with the cross bars and firmly press into place.






You should now have a magnetic base that is recessed.
 If you are using 20mm x 20mm, then...



Glue around the edges of the base (all 4 sides if you want a really strong connection.)
Quickly take a square and press it into place on the model. Try to be as accurate as you can as this will reduce the need for you to do any trimming later.

Remember, leave the magnetized side facing downward. Before you glue anything, do a dry-run by checking that the side you have facing down does in fact stick to the magnet sheet you are going to put on your movement tray.

Why all this caution? If you are using Loctite or Super Glue it is difficult to change position once done!!



As you can see here, a well cut 20mm x 20mm piece of magnetic sheet should fit well...



...but it will add a x1-2 mm to the bottom of your base.









5. Trimming.
Once you have all the little chaps glued on, check each of them to see if you have any areas of magnetic sheet that need to be trimmed. Even if you are careful it is easy for the magnetic sheet to be either slightly too large or out of place.

Take a craft knife and carefully, (very, very carefully) trim away the excess magnetic sheet. (Remember, the only bloodshed a Skaven commander wants to see is that of his enemies - or his underlings...hehe!)

You need the bases to be trimmed because in a GW movement tray it is going to be quite a tight fit and we want all the models to be able to sit flush next to each other...

6. Preparing the Movement Tray.
Finally, we want to prepare the movement tray with magnetic sheet for the models to stick to. This is the easy bit. The only thing to do is make sure that you have the magnetic sheet cut to the right size...

Add double sided tape in 2 or 3 strips along the magnetic sheet on the plastic side (so that the magnetic side is facing up...)
Of course, if you have glue I'm sure that would be fine too...

Carefully remove the double-sided tape and push the magnetic sheet into place on top of the movement tray, applying firm pressure so that it sticks.

You should end up with this. In my case, I'm not going to go as far as painting over the magnetic sheet. For one thing it will mainly be covered in Clanrats...and another thing is that I don't know what effect that would have on the overall magnetism and strength of the magnetic connection...



7. Finished Product...and Testing!
Voila! I'll let the finished products speak for themselves...




'ere we go, 'ere we go, 'ere we go...





...mission accomplished!

The magnetic sheet actually keeps the rats firmly in place, to the point where they won't fall off even when tipped like this. Just in case you were wondering, they models can still easily be plucked off the movement tray by hand. (Important as you are going to have to remove them some time!)
As I say, I'm sure this could be done an easier and faster way, and there are probably hundreds of different materials and methods that could be used...but this was what I did using the materials in my local (small) 100 Yen shop. 


I'm quite happy with the results, but please let me know if you have any questions!

*Squeek*

Wednesday, December 22, 2010

Skaven Second Wave? Pics?

*Squeek*

Just a quick one today...

...the excellent Fields of Blood blog has posted some pics of new Skaven models for 2011, attributed to "Warpmaster". There has been talk for some months of new models, especially the Abomination, and these images seem to show that, as well as a couple of other exciting new things.

I can't say I am crazy about these particular sculpts (if they are for real) but that could be because there are so many amazing home-brew abominations out there by talented amateurs already!

Anyway, check out the images and pray for more details in the future... You can find the post here:
http://thefieldsofblood.blogspot.com/2010/12/skaven-2nd-wave-photos.html

*Squeek*
p.s In other news, I managed to complete a couple of movement trays and also settled on a method for magnetizing them using a few things I found in the 100Yen shop near my place. Pics and step-by-step over the Christmas weekend!

Sunday, December 19, 2010

Awesome Verminous New Models!

*Squeek*

There was I, not knowing what it was that I wanted for Christmas, when an interesting post came up in my Blogger Dashboard from Warhammer Fantasy Miniatures Gallery with a beautiful new model of a Chimaera. "Looks cool" I thought, "let's check it out!"

Copyright Maelstrom Games. Picture reproduced without permission.
Please visit www.maelstromgames.co.uk for more info and larger images.



































Yes, it IS a cool model, and a beautiful sculpt (not to mention beautifully painted!
I had never heard of the BaneBeasts range before, so this was a great find. Thanks to the original post, I could see that these were available over at Maelstrom Games. Even though I don't live in the UK, I have ordered from them before and so far have found their prices, special offers and their service to be excellent (particularly important when ordering from overseas).

So, having seen the Chimaera I was all ready to keep on checking out other blog updates when suddenly, on scrolling further down the post I came across some other figures in the range. My (beady, ratty) eyes really lit up (red?) when I saw this fellow:

Scar-Scath, Fiend of Vermin...
Copyright Maelstrom Games. Picture reproduced without permission.
Please visit www.maelstromgames.co.uk for more info and larger images.



































Here is some accompanying text from the BaneBeast page:


"The depredations and perversions of the Under-vermin are detestable at the best of times, but their base parodies of faith and devotion are almost too loathsome to speak of. Yet gods they indeed worship, gods of defilement and tarnish, gods of the under-earth that no right-minded soul would solicit, gods that ascend from their pits in forms that delight their supplicants and dismay their enemies in equal measure. Scar-scath is such a form, a fiend of the vermin-kind wrought from the earth and the rocks and the corestones, a golem given life through the sacrifice of the hated above-men to bring death to their kind."


Rubbing my paws with glee at having potentially found an answer to my Christmas conundrum, I headed over to The BaneBeasts page at Maelstrom Games... 
...Argggghhh, I immediately found my ratty mind dazed and confused by the presence of another rat-related model that I now wanted to join my warband...


Three Face, the Verminous Horror...

Copyright Maelstrom Games. Picture reproduced without permission.
Please visit www.maelstromgames.co.uk for more info and larger images.

















From the BaneBeasts page:


"The under-places of this world harbour many creatures that can only be described as horrors, freakish things that were not meant to walk or crawl upon the earth. The under-vermin are such, foul parodies of man and rat, but their creations, their vivisects, are nothing less than grotesque monsters that only insane minds and cruel temperaments could bring to life. Three-Face is one of them, an unspeakable, verminous horror that melds rats, bovines and arcane workings to power a beast that is truly repugnant, an atrocity of nature that inspires not only terror but a profound loathing of all vermin-kind."


Visions of unstoppable Skaven hordes in my mind, I leapt down from my chair and scampered over to my scavenge pile to begin counting my monies. Surely such beauties would cost many, many warp-tokens?! However, after checking the information, I discovered I probably wouldn't have to ransom my litter to purchase such monstrous assistance as they are relatively affordable for these kinds of reinforcements. (To bad, as due to the high expense I could do with a smaller litter of ratlings round about Christmas...)


So with Warp-tokens counted I sat in front of the computer and, bathed in the glow of the interwebs, browsed the Maelstrom site...
only to find that HORRORS...CURSES! Scar-Scath isn't available until January, but Three Face is in stock now...


Oh, what to do, what to DO?

  • Forget ordering them. Buy a huge Christmas cake instead...
  • Buy Three Face and wait to see if I like it before ordering Scar-Scath?
  • Warp-token budget be damned - order both now!
*Squeeeek!*

p.s. Before anyone asks, I am not associated in any way with Maelstrom Games or the BaneBeasts series, and gain nothing financially from blogging about them.

p.p.s I bow before sculptors Alex Carrasco, Daniel Cockersell,  Sean Green and Alan Huntley and painters Ben Komets, Tim Fisher and Sebastien Picque. I doubt you'll ever read this blog but...amazing job, just amazing!
:-)




Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Modular Movement Trays...decisions, decisions!

*Squeek*

Images from www.games-workshop.com 
I finally picked up a set of some of the most important Wargear any self-respecting Skaven warlord should have...
...movement trays!

Yes, I know that by buying some movement trays I have probably gone down in your estimation...
Yes, I could have made them myself from cardboard or any other material at almost no cost...
but the GW sets weren't too expensive. A couple of sets cost 12 pounds and provides enough trays for almost all my currently painted models.

So my nice new trays are sitting in front of me, unmade,  but now I have them the burning question becomes:
What size should I make them up as? (Remember, I haven't yet played a game of 8th edition yet!) Everywhere I look there seems to be different information about the "right" number of troops to have in a unit and the different frontage etc...

5x5? (25 is far too few for any self-respecting horde I suspect...)
6x5? (Hmmm, 30 Clanrats is more like it.)
5x8? (40? Sounds about right)
10x5? (50? 10 troops wide to take advantage of the horde rules?)

...and of course, I'm sure this depends on the troop type. Clanrats will be a totally different proposition from Skaven slaves I'm sure.

It would be great to hear from some experienced Skaven Warlords about what sizes of unit you have found most effective (or at the least, the minimum size for a unit of Clanrats) AND how you have arranged your unit trays.

Any ideas?

*Squeek*

A Return to Tau?

++Tau'fann++

No painting or Skaven today, but just wanted to reflect on a great weekend of gaming...
...with Warhammer 40K!  (Yes, I know this is a Skaven blog, but at the bottom of this entry I'll get to the point by asking for your opinion on something...)

As you may or may not know, I got back into Warhammer via a rediscovery of Warhammer 40K. The 40K universe was a passion of mine that first took hold when I was a teenager and then briefly lapsed  (for around 20 years or so?) before being resurrected by a friend who casually asked me if I had ever heard of Warhammer and would I be interested in fighting some battles?

Anyway, I haven't played 40K for what seemed like months (work, travel etc.) when finally some friends and I were able to get together for a 3000 points per-side 4-way battle.
Space Marines (1,000 Points) and Tau (2,000 Points)
v.
Tyranids (2,000 Points) and Orks (1,000 Points)
So, two horde armies against one extremely "Shooty" army (Tau) and a "sort of shooty" army (vanilla space marines) locked in battle in the "Dawn of War" scenario and annihilation - excellent match up and massive fun! (If a bit slow. I AM the slowest 40K player in the world.)

The purpose of this post isn't to do a battle-report (as it would take hours to write) but more to share the experience. So what did I enjoy?

1.) Using models that hadn't been used for a while was great. It really re-motivated me to keep working on the Skaven. The fact that I had spent so much time painting a large army previously now means that I know I can do it again! (I'm looking at you unpainted Skaven slaves...)

2.) Re-visiting a Codex and rules that I hadn't thought about for months was a challenge, but a good one! I remembered the tips and lessons that I had learned the hard way over the last year. (Not forgetting lessons learned from the community over at Advanced Tau Tactica - surely one of the best resources anywhere for Tau players.

3.) Opening my army case for the first time in months and lining the models up in a row. HA! That sounds really childish but I suspect I am not the only wargamer who enjoys that. What a return to childhood and simpler times! (playing on the floor with green plastic Army Men?!)

4.) The tactical challenge and fun of working with an army I don't know very well. Unlike many 40K players, I didn't start with an Assault on Black Reach set. Although I am familiar with the Space Marines backstory, unit types and Codex (it's a fun read) I have never collaborated with a "regular" Space Marines army.

5.) Perhaps best of all, the fun of socializing with a good group of people who have the same hobby, and take the same attitude to it as me. (Fun comes first, sportsmanship and laughs!)

Now of course, there was something that I didn't enjoy at all...
NOTICING ALL THE MISTAKES THAT STILL NEED FIXING DOING ON MY TAU ARMY!

AaaaaaaarrrghhhH!

:-)

So, having played 40K last weekend, I find myself asking the following question, which is mainly aimed at those who play both 40K and WFB...
"What are the key differences, if any, between the two systems that one has to learn and adapt to when moving from 40K to WFB? (or vice-versa?)

All thoughts welcome!

++END TRANSMISSION++

Just for fun, some photos my Tau below...












































Tuesday, December 7, 2010

Warpfire Thrower and Skaven Jezzail Update

*Squeek*

Just a quick photo update today...
...an "old style" Skaven Warpfire Thrower that I finished today...
...a completed unit of Jezzails. (You may know that one of the earliest posts I did was for a Jezzail. As it turns out, I never got around to finishing the other two in the unit, so thought that this might be a "quick win"!)

First, here are some pics of the Warpfire Thrower. Compared to the new style Warpfire Throwers in the Island of Blood Box set, what do you think of the sculpt?
(Please note that all photos were taken at night under...kitchen lights...so apologies for the poor quality!)

Skaven Warpfire Thrower...





















Here's one of the new sculpts for comparison...
















...and here is the completed Jezzail unit. (As my army colour is Ice Blue I added a dusting on the pavise to make a visual connection with the rest of the army, even if the unit itself is wearing Clan Skryre red uniforms.)




















I hope you like them! As usual, all comments and constructive criticism welcome!

Cheers,

*Squeek*
p.s. What do you think of the Snakebite Leather bases? Better than Knarloc Green?
;-)