Wednesday, April 27, 2011

How to paint Skaven Clanrats (Island of Blood)

*Squeek*

"Ifs ya gonna be Skaven, ya gots to has lots of Clannies!"

"Ere, quit pushin' at the back!"

The new models by Games Workshop are (in my opinion) a huge improvement over previous generations - for one thing, they are much easier to assemble and paint. For another, much more durable! (I've lost count of the number of times the tails of the older models have dropped off when knocked...)
 
Below you will find a step-by-step guide to a basic process for painting "5th Generation" Clanrats to what many people would call "Tabletop" standard. (To compare Clanrats through the ages, take a look at this excellent post over at My Wargame.) I'm not a great painter, so can't do much better than this anyway!
(By the way, if you are looking for older Clanrat models, take a look here. While I don't like these sculpts, they are cheap if you can get them on ebay and they make good Skavenslaves.)

EDIT: Following the launch of the latest Citadel Paint range in 2012, please note that the colours listed below are from the previous range. I hope to have time to rewrite in the future, but for the time being, you can use the conversion chart/ list I made here or use the official Citadel Conversion chart here.

The process followed was:

A.) First basing and undercoat:
After assembly, liberally apply PVA glue to base and dip in modelling sand. Wait until dry, then undercoat. (I use Chaos Black spraypaint.) 



Earth: Drybrush Calthan Brown across the sand.
Base edges: Calthan Brown.
(I like to do my bases like this at the beginning so that I get it out of the way. Nothing depresses me more than finishing 40 models and then going back to do basic work on the bases!) 

B.) Basecoat:
I do these in the following order (so I can cover splatters or mistakes easily.) 
- Skin/ Tail/ Feet: Tallarn Flesh.
 
- Fur: Calthan Brown.
- Cloth: Ice Blue.
- Metal: Boltgun metal. (Weapons, belt buckle)
- Leathers: Snakebite leather. (Belt, wristband, armour crosspiece on the back of the Clanrat.)

- Wood: Calthan Brown. (Spear haft, wooden shields.) 


C.) Apply Washes: 
- Skin: Ogryn Flesh.
- Armour, robes, weapons: Liberally apply Devlan Mud.
- Rust on weapons or armour: Very watered down Solar Macharius Orange. 

Basecoat colours only.

After Ogryn Flesh Wash.

After "Rust" wash (watery Macharius Solar Orange)


D.) Layers:
(Reapply base colours and add layers of lighter shades/ colours) 
- Skin/ Tail/ Feet: Calthan Brown/Dwarf Flesh 50/50 mix on raised areas, then 25/50 mix.
(Be careful to leave some Tallarn flesh areas and the shadows created by the Devlan Mud wash and the black undercoat - especially on the tail.)
- Cloth: Ice Blue/ Skull White 75/25 mix on raised edges, then 50/50 mix. 

- Leathers: Snakebite leather/ Skull white (50/50 mix). 

After layering on flesh.

 


















E.) Drybrushing: (Optional)
- Fur: Drybrush Calthan Brown/ Skull White (50/50).
- Metal: Drybrush Mithril silver (Weapon edges) buttons etc. (e.g. Rivets if the model has a shield etc.) or just apply as an "Extreme Highlight" on the edge of the weapon/ armour.
 

F.) Final Basing:  
- Base: Drybrush Tallarn Flesh
- Apply dabs of PVA glue onto the base and dip into green flock.
 
 
Just a couple of final notes...

...my preferred method is to sit down for 2 hours every night for a few days and complete one step on all 40 models in each session (E.g. Adding a different base colour, doing one wash, painting the bases etc.) slowly making my way up to the same standard for all models.  Using this approach I am able to fully complete a unit in about a week.  

However, this time around I decided to only add detail on the command unit (Champion, Standard Bearer, Musician) to save time. I saw this in an edition of White Dwarf - basically, you spend the most time and effort on the front rank, with progressively less detail on the back ranks. (Back ranks would get only as far as washes, ranks in front of that would get highlights on hand and face only, front few ranks would get full highlights and drybrushes as well....)

...definitely consider a "Rust" wash on all weapons using very watered down Solar Macharius Orange. It is the easiest way to add a really "Skaven" feeling of dirt and disuse to the whole unit. When applying, dab away excess with a dry tissue to leave a "mottled" rust effect.

Hope this is useful!
:-)

Cheers,
*Squeek* 


23 comments:

  1. great guide, I'll be using some of it when I come to do my rank and file skaven, especially that watered down orange for rust.

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  2. Glad you found it useful! These things actually take longer to write than you might think...
    :-)
    The watered down rust seems to work out pretty well and is dead easy to do too!

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  3. I literaly started tonight on warhammer and have become a through skaven fanatic. i wish to thank you now for all the tips and advice you have posted for noobs like myself.

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  4. Hi anonymous - welcome to the world of Warhammer - and to the world of the Children of the Horned Rat! I'm glad that the Chattering Horde is helpful but I am still only a noob myself...
    Best of luck to you and your clan!

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  5. Hi, just thought I would say thanks for posting these guides, very helpfull for someone like me new to the paining side of things.

    The sheer number of Skaven "rank & file" can be a daunting prospect! I have been putting it off for a while now, with excuses that I had no idea on how to go about painting them properly but now I have no excuse.....

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  6. I think you've been lucky to be honest. The two sides (left and right) of Queek's torso must be where the mould joins as mine didn't line up by a few (very noticable) mm's. Ended up returning it and ebaying a metal one.

    Had no problems with finecast 40k models though.

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  7. Great guide! :)
    I do have a few suggestions though. I would paint the models noses black and use a darker general skin tone so that you can use a lighter colour to the hands and mouth area. Hope this helps

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    Replies
    1. Thanks for the suggestions. I haven't done black noses but will definitely give that a try. I tend to start the skin off with a Tallarn Flesh, but maybe an actual brown would be better? (Bestial Brown? Vermin Brown might be a bit too red). Or maybe just darken down the Tallarn Flesh a bit...
      Can I ask what you use?
      Thanks for the feedback!
      :-)

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  8. Just wanted to say thank you for the great work done in this blog! I just ordered my first WHFB models - Skavens for sure ;) - and your guides really helped me a lot. Although I'm new with WHFB, I've done some painting in the past, so I'm really looking forward making my rats look as great as yours ;)
    Also, since none of my friends in my area plays Skaven, I had no idea which colors I should use, therefore your guides helped me a lot choosing the colors I wanted :)
    Have a nice weekend, cheers ;)

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    Replies
    1. Glad that you found it useful as a place to get started. I have been back into painting a couple of years now I guess (between Skaven and my WH40K Tau army) but still lots to learn. I just saw a great step-by-step guide on the underempire.net last week which had tons of good stuff. Drop by there (if you haven't already) for some REALLY good painting!
      ;-)
      and WELCOME TO WFB! Happy gaming.
      *Squeek*

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  9. Hey :)

    Firstly excellent job on all of these very useful guides!!

    Secondly do you remember which specific White Dwarf issue it was that you found this:

    However, this time around I decided to only add detail on the command unit (Champion, Standard Bearer, Musician) to save time. I saw this in an edition of White Dwarf - basically, you spend the most time and effort on the front rank, with progressively less detail on the back ranks. (Back ranks would get only as far as washes, ranks in front of that would get highlights on hand and face only, front few ranks would get full highlights and drybrushes as well....)

    Again thank you :)

    You have made the task at hand seem less daunting

    *only 100 clanrats to do :D

    Jay

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    Replies
    1. Hiya Jay and thanks for the question. After reading your post I went back and skimmed through the WD issues I have around, but I couldn't find the specific reference. I am pretty sure that it was a WD article, but maybe I am wrong?
      I am sorry I can't find the reference. Even if it wasn't in WD though I think it is still a good idea as it can definitely save you some time.
      If you do it, make sure you can always tell who your front rank is going to be later (numbering under the bases etc.) Otherwise if you don't store them on their bases it will be a pain to pick out the front row models (that aren't command models) again...
      If I find the reference I will be sure to put it up.
      Cheers,
      Squeek

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    2. Hello again Jay.
      I found the reference to painting in ranks. It is in WD375 March 2011. That issue is focused on Orcs and Goblins. The specific section is in "Army Workshop Orcs and Goblines" (p.99 "Orc Army Painting")
      Hope that helps.
      :-)
      Squeek
      p.s. Don't forget to give thanks to Gork, (or is it Mork?) as the Ork god must have helped me out...

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  10. Fantastic guide. I'll be using this scheme but with red clothes. Great work and tutorial!

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    Replies
    1. Hi Nevetz - thanks for stopping by and the comment too (much appreciated)! I always think red looks very striking for Clanrats...is it a particular clan? (Skryre)
      *Squeek*

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  11. Thank you for the awesomazing guide Squeek!
    I just started WHFB with Skavens from the Island of blood set and was looking for a paint scheme to put on them, really loving your Skavens, I'll most likely just change the base colour of clothpieces and maybe go for a slightly darker shade of skin/fur tone. (Bestial Brown as you said earlier might look good)
    If you have any suggestions on what units should one use to bolster the force to get a good basic army, please share :)

    Keep on squeaking!

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    Replies
    1. You are welcome! I think Skaven really benefit from a dark and dirty look, so don't hesitate to go darker!
      Regarding which forces to bolster your army with, I would definitely encourage scouring the pages of a good community like "The Underempire". My reason for saying that is that alot would depend on your circumstances. Do you play aga
      ainst a specific army all the time? Do you have a budget? What kind of force do you field now? All these things would influence what you might buy. A "Good problem to have" with Skaven is that depending on your interests there is always something good! The other reason I recommed advice from other people is that I am more of a painter than a general...

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  12. hi squeek, literally just started skaven so have ordered 2 boxes each of clan rats and stormvermin to form a nice solid core for starters. I'm finding your paintings tips really useful, but just wondering what paint did you use for the grey robe on the clan-rat. Cheers!

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    Replies
    1. OOOps! Reviewing the post above, it looks like I have totally forgotten to list it!

      It is a bit difficult to remember as I have have imbibed more than my share of Skalm since putting up this post, but I am pretty sure that it would be "Codex Grey", now known as "Dawnstone".

      Does that help?

      Cheers,
      Squeek

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  13. Hey, I would just like to thank you for posting such informative and thorough guides. You have really inspired me to getting into WHFB and of course, play skaven.

    I already own a few paints, mostly reds and golds. I was wondering if you had any suggestions or tips on how to do the robes of the clan rats in a red, as opposed to the blue, simply to save costs?

    Any feed back would be greatly appreciated!

    - Joshua

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  14. THanks for the comment - sorry I couldn't reply earlier!

    For Red, try and use a darker red as the base coat, this might be a GW Mechrite Red (Now known as "Mephiston Red"?) and then you can easily use a "Brighter" red for highlights later. This will give you overall a dark red vibe.
    The other option is to use a brighter red as the basecoat. That will then get darker when you apply a wash (Agrax Earthshade). Then highlight with the same colour.

    I haven't used red very much, so do paint a test model first to see what it looks like!

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  15. Great Guide!
    It was very straightforward, but i have a suggestion maybe you should dry brush the clothing and fur with a lighter colour after using the wash so u can show of some of the clanrats highlights.

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    Replies
    1. Thanks for the tip! I do sometimes drybrush, but often only on the front rank or the main models to save time. I guess it all depends on how I am feeling and which models I am working on!
      Agree that dry brushing does make the highlights stand out more!
      :-)

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