How to Paint a Skaven Warlord

*Squeek*

Below is a step-by-step guide to painting an Island of Blood Skaven Warlord. No claims that it is high-art or anything like that, but I think that it works pretty well on the table-top!

At a couple of stages I have added some WIP pics, and there are some images of the finished item at the bottom (Note that I painted this ages a go, so some of the steps may not be in order.)

Hope you like it...

EDIT: Following the launch of the latest Citadel Paint range in 2012, please note that the colours listed below are from the previous range. I hope to have time to rewrite in the future, but for the time being, you can use the conversion chart/ list I made here or use the official Citadel Conversion chart here.

1. Assembly.

• File away any flash or very carefully remove using a modelling knife. (My ratty fingers carry many scars that are mute testimony to how important it is to be careful...)
• Glue to base.

2. First Basing.

• Paint some slightly watered-down PVA glue to the base.
• Dip base into modelling sand.
• Shake away excess and leave to dry.

3. Undercoat.

• Undercoat whole model. (I use GW Chaos Black spray paint.)

4. Dry Brush base.

• Calthan Brown.

5. Basecoat.

• Boltgun Metal: Halberd blade, chains on the back-banner, fixtures on back banner symbol (holding symbol to pole), chainmail, front edge of helmet
• Dwarf Bronze: Armour, helmet, Skaven symbol on back-banner, brazier
• Bleached Bone: Skull, cords on back-banner pole, stitching at the top of the back-banner flags.
• Dark Angels Green: Warpstone fumes.
• Codex Grey: Plinth/ masonry, back-banner flag:
• Tallarn Flesh: face, hands, feet, tail.
• Ice Blue: Robes, halberd pendant. 
• Snakebite Leather: leather armour straps, pouch
• Knarloc Green: Back-banner flag.
• Skull White: Teeth, nails.
• Red Gore: Eyes, jewel on plinth/ masonry.

6. Layers.

• Robes/ Halberd Pendant: Ice Blue/ Skull White (50/50 mix), then Ice Blue/ Skull White (25/75 mix)
• Flesh/ Tail: Tallarn Flesh/ Dwarf Flesh (50/50 mix)
• Skull: Bleached Bone/ Skull White (50/50 mix)
• Back Banner Flag (Green): Calthan Green/ Skull White (50/ 50 mix) then Calthan Green/ Skull White (25/75 mix)
• Back Banner Flag (Grey): Codex Grey/ Fortress Grey (50/50 mix) then Codex Grey/ Fortress Grey (25/75 mix)
• Warpstone Pendant: Dark Angels Green/ Snot Green (50/50 mix) then Dark Angels Green/ Snot Green (25/75 mix)
• Warpstone Flame: Dark Angels Green/ Snot Green (50/50 mix) then Dark Angels Green/ Snot Green (25/75 mix) then Dark Angels Green/ Snot Green/ Skull White (50/25/25 mix)
• Pouch/ Leather straps: Snakebite Leather/ Skull White (50/50 mix)
• Eyes: Red Gore/ Blood Red (50/50 mix)
• Jewel on Plinth/ Masonry: Red Gore/ Blood Red (50/ 50 mix) then 25/75 mix, then Red Gore/ Blood Red/ Skull White (25/50/ 15)

If you want to add Skaven symbols to the back-banner flags, now is a good time to do it - before washes...

7. Washes.

• Devlan Mud: Armour, chainmail, halberd Blade, halberd pole, hatchet, robes, back-banner flags, back banner pole (not cords.), halberd pendant, Plinth/ masonry.
• Thraka Green: Warpstone amulet, warpstone smoke.
• Gryphonne Sepia: Cords on back-banner pole, skull.
• Ogryn Flesh: Flesh, tail, feet, hands.

8. Drybrushing.

• Shining Gold: Armour, brazier, Skaven symbol on back-banner
• Mithril Silver: Chainmail.
• Calthan Brown/ Skull White (75/25 mix): Halberd pole, back-banner pole
• Codex Grey: very lightly brush across the exposed fur on the Warlord's back.
• Banner Chains: Chainmail or Mithril Silver.
• Earth: Calthan Brown/ Snakebite leather (50/50 mix)

9. Highlights.

• Weapon edges: Chainmail
• Metal clasps on back banner/ Skaven Symbol: Chainmail or Mithril Silver.
• Add a dot of white on the jewel on the plinth/ masonry. (See images below)

10. Final Basing.

• Dab on a couple of spots of PVA glue.
• Dip in green flock.
• Leave to set for a few minutes then shake off excess.
• Carefully paint around base edge using Snakebite Leather.

11. Verdigris (Optional)

This is the light blue patina that you see on old statues or layers of bronze in museums or exposed to the elements. Having this will add an additional sense of age to any bronze parts. Please note, if you haven't done this before, experiment first, as if you get it wrong this is the last stage of the model, so it may be difficult to correct...

• Heavily water down GW Ice Blue. You'll have to experiment to find the right consistency, but I would say 1 part paint to between 7 and 10 parts water. It should be watery enough that you can wipe away WITHOUT leaving a stain. (Very important so you can correct mistakes if necessary!)
• Carefully paint onto any bronze parts where Verdigris would naturally appear so that it gathers. In the case of the Skaven Warlord, a good place is around the base of the shoulder spikes on his armour. (recessed areas, around nails, buttons and joins between bronze parts are also good too.)
• Quickly take a tissue, fold to a point, and dab away any excess, so it is left gathered around the parts mentioned above.
• Leave remainder to dry. (Be patient!)
• HINT: Only add Verdigris to one area at a time so you have time to wick or dab away excess before it dries. Don't add to ALL bronze parts on the whole model at the same time! 

FINISHED!