A Gloomhaven Family Photo (all 18 Gloomhaven miniatures painted)

End of a (painting) Journey

I've finally not only painted all 18 miniatures that come in the Gloomhaven box but also managed to photo them as a group. Previously I listed up all miniatures in three different posts of six, each of which have notes on paints used. You can find those...

1. Here (part 1: Starting 6 characters, Cragheart, Spellweaver, Brute, Tinkerer, Mindthief, Scoundrel)
2. Here (part 2: Angry Face, Sun, Circles, Eclipse, Two Minis/ Bear Face) and...
3. Here (part 3: Lightning Bolts, Saw, Cthulu, Music Note, Three Spears, Triangles)

Below the spoiler images, I've put some final photos of the whole group, and then of each group noted above.

Fortunately even though the painting is finished (apart from some touch ups I can see already) the adventure continues as my gaming group is still working our way through the game.

I hope you enjoy the photos.

The gang is all here!

Painted Gloomhaven Miniatures #3 (Saw, Cthulu, Music note, Triangles, Three spears, Lightning Bolt)

 The circle is complete...

...because following part 1 and part 2 of this series I have now put the final six locked characters that I painted for Gloomhaven below.

• Triangles
• Saw
• Cthulu
• Music note
• Three Spears
• Lightning Bolt

As with the other posts, once we go below the *SPOILER* line I'll list each character one-by-one with a couple of notes, their real class names and the names of paints used. I used Games Workshop colours, simply because they are what I had to hand. This was a mix of Contrast Paints, "regular" paints (base paints, layer paints etc.), and washes. I've included one or two links to online tutorials that I found useful - painting gems being a good example.

As with the other twelve characters, these were painted with speed in mind and just to look good enough for the gaming table. For the most part this means using Contrast paints wherever possible (anything organic like cloth or wood), washes and maybe a highlight or some drybrushing. Sometimes I spent a bit of time on a gem or some jewelry so there there was some detail. 

Previously I saved time by doing only the simplest of bases, but this time I tried to branch out a bit. I did three of these bases as hexes (Saw, Music note,Three spears), using similar colours to those of the dungeon tiles used in the game itself. I also added a couple touches to Lightning Bolt's base for a bit of fun. Not perfect but nice to try something different.

Here we go.

Triangles (Savvas Elementalist)

The Elementalist is great because at "heart" he has some nice bright colours, reflecting his mastery of the different elements in the game. This is in stark contrast to the the Cragheart, with his fractured heart and focus on earth. For painting, 90 percent of him can be done with contrast paints so he feels quick to do except his belt, where I spotted an opportunity to give him a couple of gems. There are lots of good gem tutorials on YouTube and different blogs, and I used this one on creativetwilight.com to help me.

I'll be honest and say that the Contrast Iyanden Yellow cloak is an acquired taste and I keep going backwards and forwards on whether I like it or not. However I've decided to leave it as is - just one application of the paint - as the model feels "good enough" and adding layers of yellow would take more time! Scroll down for photos and paints list.

Elementalist

• Skin / face: Contrast Snakebite leather. When dry, lightly apply Dheneb Stone (drybrush)
• Eyes: Abaddon Black, then Corax White pupils
• "Heart": Contrast Ork Flesh, Flash Gitz Yellow, Mephiston Red or Khorne Red, Contrast Aethermatic Blue 
• Cape: Contrast Iyanden Yellow
• Loincloth/ sash: Contrast Talassar Blue
• Metal belt: 
• Mournfang Brown, then Dwarf Bronze.
• Red gem: Abaddon Black, Khorne Red, Mephiston Red, Corax White (reflection)
• Blue gem: Abaddon Black, Mordian Blue, Lothern Blue, Corax White (reflection)
• For a great gems tutorial, please visit this website.
• "Back plate/ shoulder plate": Dwarf Bronze, Nuln Oil (wash),  Auric Armour Gold (highlight), Runefang Steel (edge highlight, where gold might be rubbed off)
• Metal Bracers: Mournfang Brown, then Dwarf Bronze, Nuln Oil wash, Dwarf Bronze highlight.
• Base:
• Rocks: Mechanicus Standard Grey, Agrax Earthshade (wash) finally a Russ Grey (drybrush)
• Sand/ earth: Watered down wood glue, dipped into modelling sand, then Contrast Cygor Brown (when dry!)
• "Grass": Middenland Tuft grass (Available from Games Workshop). I often like to add a tuft onto the rocky base as I think it looks good.
• "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish.

Saw (Sawbones)

The Sawbones turned out better than I'd hoped!

At first I was worried that there would be too much grey and that his hair, white robes and the grey furs would all blend together. However once everything was on there was still plenty of contrast between the different parts of the model. Also the red trim on his robes and the potions provide nice points of interest for the eye. 

Some people don't like GW's Contrast Apothecary White because it isn't actually "white" when compared against a traditional white (like "Corax White"). Instead it looks very, very, very greyish white, showing a greyish blue where it puddles. If you can get over the fact that it isn't a bright white this still works well on robes and as a quick painting solution. White is notoriously challenging for organic materials as it isn't easy to add shadow without a lot of work. This is where Apothecary White comes into its own IMHO.

Some people add splashes of blood on his robes and surgical saw. This can be done by flicking a brush to get a random pattern, but I preferred to keep him "clean" (er...pre-surgery?)

Sawbones

• Skin / face: Contrast Guilliman Flesh, Tallarn Flesh (highlight), finally Tallarn Flesh/ Elf Flesh 50/50 highlight.
• Eyes: Abaddon Black, then Corax White, then Abaddon Black pupil
• Hair: Contrast Spacewolves Grey
• Furs: Contrast Spacewolves Grey
• Robes/ headband: Contrast Apothecary White, then fringe of Contrast Fleshtearers Red.
• Leather belt, quiver, potion bag, boots, bracers: Contrast Snakebite Leather, buckles in Leadbelcher, followed by a Runefang Steel highlight on the buckles.
• Arrow fletchings: Contrast Black Templar.
• Potions: Contrast Aethermatic Blue, with small highlight of Moot Green.
• Spaulders (shoulder armour): Leadbelcher, followed by Nuln Oil wash, then Leadbelcher again, finally Runefang Steel highlights.
• Base:
• Hexagon design: Paint the whole base Mechanicus Standard Grey. Then use a ruler and measure each side of the hexagon at 14mm very gently marking down the hexagon with pencil. Once satisfied, paint over the pencil using Abaddon Black or a dark browna nd a very thin brush. Finally, paint along each side of the hexagon lines using a lighter grey (e.g. Russ Grey.)
• Grass: Middenland Tuft grass (Available from Games Workshop). In this case I added the smallest size of tuft onto one of the black lines of the hexagon, so it looks like it is peeking out.
• "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish. To keep the feeling of a "hex" from the game, the black is only painted to half-way up the rim.

Cthulu (Plagueherald)

Cthulu is certainly an apt name for this character. Just looking at it reminds me of something from a Lovecraftian nightmare. What made me very happy though was that 99% of the model is organic, and therefore speedy to paint using Contrast paints. Only three small metal buckles and a brooch gem would require some time-consuming attention.

One trick that I tried here was to give the Plagueherald a sense of forward motion and extra corruption. An easy way to do this was to add some drips of corruption trailing behind the Plagueherald. These dabs of Moot Green scarring the earth also add a touch of colour to the very simple base. An optional further touch is to lightly drybrush that corruption around the "feet" of the model. This could either represent an unholy aura or more dripping corruption.

Plagueherald

• Tentacles/ "Face"/ fingers: Contrast Ork Flesh. Optional: Moot Green highlight or drybrush, with a final highlight of 50/50 Moot Green & Corax White.
• Leather belt, belt pouch, mask (in hand): Contrast Snakebite Leather.
• Buckles: Leadbelcher, followed by an Nuln Oil wash, then a Runefang Steel highlight.
• Brooch gem: Contrast Magos Purple, with a dot of white as a reflection. For great tutorials on gems, please visit this website or check out this guide!
• Optional: it might be fun to paint up the mask as a human face, giving the impression that the Plagueherald hides behind human skin..."Face off" style.
• Robes, hood, shoulder cape: Contrast Black Templar. To add a bit of interest, I did a Mechanicus Grey drybrush on the arms and lower robes. This means the hood and shoulder cape stay darker.
• Base:
• Watered down wood glue, dipped into modelling sand, then Contrast Cygor Brown (when dry!).  Middenland Tuft grass. 
• Behind the biggest tentacles, paint small dots of bright green (Moot Green) in straight lines. (Optional) very lightly drybrush Moot Green around the bottom of the legs on the ground to create a glow of corruption.
• "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish. To keep the feeling of a "hex" from the game, the black is only painted to half-way up the rim.

Music Note (Soothsinger)

This little fellow definitely deserves to look like a troubadour right?  With that instrument, feathers in his cap and a nice billowing cape (and jaunty scarf no less!) he looks ready to party. Look a little closer though and you'll see his smile belies his readiness for dungeon delving: scale armour on his chest, armoured knee caps, vambraces and a blade tucked behind his back...

Soothsinger

• Skin / face/ arms/ hands: Contrast Guilliman Flesh, Tallarn Flesh (highlight), finally Tallarn Flesh/ Elf Flesh 50/50 highlight. 
• Eyes: Mordian Blue, with Corax White pupils.
• Hat: 
• Brim/ hat: Snakebite Leather
• Feathers: Contrast Magos Purple, Contrast Talassar Blue, Contrast Ork Flesh
• Musical instrument: Mournfang Brown (wood), Runefang Steel (strings), Dwarf Bronze with Auric Armour Gold (highlights)
• Scarf: Contrast Ork Flesh. Then Corax White drybrush on the scarf tassels.
• Cape: Contrast Talassar Blue (Optional: Mordian Blue/ Lothern Blue highlights on the cape)
• Armour (chest, shoulders, vambraces): Mournfang Brown, then Dwarf Bronze, apply Nuln Oil wash, then drybrush Auric Armour Gold.
• Arrow fletchings (just behind his right shoulder): Contrast Black Templar.
• Trousers: Contrast Ork Flesh.
• Cloth Robe: Contrast Magos Purple
• Base:
• Hexagon design: Paint the whole base brown (e.g. Mournfang Brown). Then use a ruler and measure each side of the hexagon at 14mm very gently marking down the hexagon with pencil. Once satisfied, paint over the pencil using Abaddon Black or a dark brown with a very thin brush. Finally, paint along each side of the hexagon lines using a lighter brown (e.g. Vermin Brown.) For this model I added a few cracks before adding the grass.
• Grass: Middenland Tuft grass (Available from Games Workshop). In this case I added the smallest size of tuft onto one of the black lines of the hexagon, so it looks like it is peeking out.
• "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish. To keep the feeling of a "hex" from the game, the black is only painted to half-way up the rim.

Three Spears (Quartermaster)

With his large backpack, bandolier, and gear this fellow looks ready for anything - including a fight. I really like his spaulders (which reminds me of a Megacity 1 Judge with that winged-eagle motif), and that he seems to have four, (yes four!) swords. 

In terms of painting, he was much more time consuming than the other models. He has a lot of detail - something you'll see from all the bullet points below. As with the Sawbones (above) I decided to give him a hexagon style base.

• Skin / face: Contrast Guilliman Flesh, Tallarn Flesh (highlight), finally Tallarn Flesh/ Elf Flesh 50/50 highlight
• Eyes: Abaddon Black, then Corax White, then Abaddon Black pupil
• Hair: Contrast Black Templar
• Coat/ Robes: Contrast Ork Flesh
• Leather belt, bandolier, backpack, boots, leather gloves: Contrast Snakebite Leather
• Backpack: After Contrast Snakebite Leather, drybrush lightly with Dheneb Stone.
• For buckles, use Leadbelcher, with a Runefang Steel highlight
• Arrow fletchings: Contrast Spacewolves Grey
• Parchment: Gryphonne Sepia wash
• Armour:
• Spaulders (shoulder armour) and knee pads: Dwarf Bronze, followed by a Nuln Oil wash, finally Auric Armour Gold drybrush.
• Brassart (upper arms) and vambraces (lower arms): Leadbelcher, followed by Nuln Oil and a Leadbelcher or Runefang Steel drybrush.
• Kneeplates, feet: Leadbelcher, followed by Nuln Oil and a Leadbelcher or Runefang Steel drybrush.
• Weapons: 
• Javelins: Leadbelcher, followed by Nuln Oil and a Leadbelcher or Runefang Steel drybrush.
• Swords:
• Scabbard: Contrast Snakebite Leather, followed by Ushabti Bone (or Dheneb Stone) highlights or drybrush. (Optional: For the ferrule - the metal cap at the bottom of the scabbard - add a touch of metal using Leadbelcher/ Runefang)
• Pommel: Leadbelcher, with a touch of Runefang Steel on top.
• Grip/ sword belt: Contrast Cygor Brown (or another dark brown)
• Base:
• Hexagon design: Paint the whole base Mechanicus Standard Grey. Then use a ruler and measure each side of the hexagon at 14mm very gently marking down the hexagon with pencil. Once satisfied, paint over the pencil using Abaddon Black or a dark brown and a very thin brush. Finally, paint along each side of the hexagon lines using a lighter grey (e.g. Russ Grey.)
• Grass: Middenland Tuft grass (Available from Games Workshop). In this case I added the smallest size of tuft onto one of the black lines of the hexagon, so it looks like it is peeking out.
• "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish. To keep the feeling of a "hex" from the game, the black is only painted to half-way up the rim.

Lightning Bolt (Beserker)

Finally, the last model of this blog post - and one of my favourites! The Berserker was really nice to paint. I like the red colour scheme from the images provided by the game and the double axes are unique in the models that come in the box. 

For the other models I used paints to differentiate the bases. In this case I customised the it by adding two elements - a sword (from a Games Workshop High Elf archer sprue), and a skull (from an old Tomb King set). I notice now though that the scale isn't right. The skull in particular is too big, but overall these items add some engaging detail - and a bit of menace.

Sword pommel gem

• Skin: Contrast Spacewolves Grey
• Face tattoo: Contrast Blood Angels Red
• Bone spurs (?) on head: Contrast Skeleton Horde
• Bodice, furs, boots, bracers: Contrast Gor Grunta Fur
• Belt and teeth: Wraithbone
• Leather straps (leg, upper-chest, back): Contrast Snakebite Leather
• Knee armour: Contrast Skeleton Horde, then a Wraithbone drybrush or highlight
• Axes: Blades and points are Leadbelcher, with Runefang Steel highlights. Handles are Contrast Blood Angels Red
• Base:
• Watered down wood glue, dipped into modelling sand, then Contrast Cygor Brown (when dry)
• Grass: Green flock, sprinkled over watered down white glue
• Sword: Cut in half to seem like it is stuck in the ground. Rust was simulated by watering down Vermin Brown and washing onto the blade 
• Grip: Contrast Ork Flesh, then Moot Green highlight
• Pommel: Dwarf Bronze
• Pommel gem: Mordian Blue, then a light blue highlight at the bottom of the gem, and then a spot of Corax White towards the top. Info on painting gems here at coolminiornot.com
• Skull: Contrast Skeleton Horde
• "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish

And there we are! The final six models from the 18 that come in the Gloomhaven box. I have enjoyed painting them, and I hope you've enjoyed the images and info above. Tonight's game of Gloomhaven will be a happy one knowing that I've painted everything up, ready for our mercenary group to enjoy as we continue our journey.

:-)

Cheers!

Painted Gloomhaven Miniatures #2 (Angry Face, Sun, Circles, Eclipse, Bear face)

 Six more Gloomhaven Adventurers...

In part one of this three part series I posted the "starting" six characters which are unlocked as you start your Gloomhaven adventure. As a new mercenary, you can choose any of these to begin your career. Each player receives a "personal quest". Once that is achieved, your character retires and you unlock a new character and their mini in a box (you actually have more options than that, but that is the gist of it!).

In this part I look at six more characters, with some basic info on techniques. A key difference from the starting six was that I tried new techniques on the bases for four of them. This was to keep things fresh and interesting. 

To keep things unspoiled for those who haven't unlocked them yet, I'll post their codenames below (used on different sites to keep their class names anonymous), and then under the spoiler banner will use their actual names.

Characters shown in this post:

• Angry face
• Sun
• Concentric Circles/ Circles
• Eclipse
• Bear Face 1/ Bear Face 2/ (Two minis)

WARNING: Below the spoiler line I'll use their real class names!

Image by: Amiramin695 on wikimedia commons (CCby SA4.0)

Image by: Amiramin695 on wikimedia commons (CCby SA4.0)

NOTE:

When I mention the paints I will say something like:

"(Part of Model) > basecoat colour name > wash name> highlight/ drybrush paint name" 

However when actually painting I would do ALL the basecoats first, then ALL the washes, and finally ALL the highlights/ drybrushes etc. :-)

Angry Face (Doomstalker)

After a Wraithbone undercoat:

• Hair: Contrast Aethermatic Blue
• Skin: Contrast Magos Purple, Tallarn Flesh (highlight) then Tallarn Flesh/ Elf Flesh (50/50 mix as final highlight.)
• Cape: Contrast Ork Flesh
• Loincloth/ sash: Contrast Blood Angels Red
• Leather belt/ quiver/ shoulder straps: Mournfang Brown, Agrax Earthshade (wash), Vermin Brown (highlight). For a final lighter highlight, use Vermin Brown/ Corax White 50/50 mix.
• Buckles: Leadbelcher, Nuln Oil (wash), Runefang Steel (highlight)
• Arrow fletchings: Contrast Spacewolf Grey
• Spaulders (shoulder armour): Leadbelcher, Nuln Oil (wash), Runefang Steel (highlight)
• Feathers (?) Contrast Talassar Blue/ Contrast Iyanden Yellow
• Leg wraps: Contrast Snakebite Leather
• Knife blade: Leadbelcher, then Nuln Oil (wash), then Runefang Steel (highlight)
• Knife guard/ pommel: Dwarf Bronze, Nuln Oil (wash),  Auric Armour Gold (highlight)
• Bow: Vermin Brown, then Agrax Earthshade (wash) then Vermin Brown (highlight). Bow fittings use Contrast Talassar Blue.
• Leather cuffs: Contrast Snakebite Leather
• Eyes: Corax White, Abaddon Black
• Base: To make the floor boards effect.
• Use craft knife to score lines across the base.
• Use different browns for different boards. e.g. Vermin Brown, Mournfang Brown.
• Wash with Agrax Earthshade, making sure grooves/ lines have shade so they will appear dark later.
• Being careful to leave dark areas in grooves, highlight with the same browns used earlier.
• "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish

Sun (Sunkeeper)

Gotta say, this is one of my favourite models. The base worked out well (IMHO), which was a relief as I tried to branch out a bit in style while matching the very light sand colour used on some of the map tiles in the game. Also the gold highlights on the armour added some bling!

After a Wraithbone undercoat:

• Hair: Contrast Spacewolves Grey
• Skin: Contrast Guilliman Flesh, then Tallarn Flesh Highlights, finally Tallarn Flesh/ Elf Flesh 50/50 mix highlight
• Eyes: Abaddon Black, Corax White
• Cape: Contrast Blood Angels Red OR Contrast Fleshtearer Red, followed by a Wild Rider Red (highlights of cape edges only)
• Shield: 
• Wood: Contrast Cygor Brown.
• Rim: Auric Armour Gold highlights.
• Armour: Lots of gold and steel here...
• Gold: Mournfang Brown basecoat, then Auric Armour Gold, Agrax Earthshade (wash), then Auric Armour Gold highlights or drybrush.
• Steel: Leadbelcher, Nuln Oil (wash), Runefang Steel (highlight)
• Warhammer: Use same colours as armour, but use a light brown (Vermin Brown) for handle.
• Base: I tried to model this on sandstone flagstones.
• "Grass": Before painting main colours, add the "Grass". Dab a few spots of watered down wood glue, then dip the whole base into modelling sand and remove. Leave to dry for a few minutes then blow/ tap off the sand that hasn't set in the glue. After drying completely, paint Contrast Cygor Brown on the sand. Once dry, drybrush with a green (Moot Green etc.)  
• Flagstones: Paint the rest of the base with a dark brown (e.g. Mournfang Brown). Then, paint in the flagstones using an off-white (e.g. Wraithbone) being careful to leave thin lines of brown between them. Finally, use a lighter shade of off-white on each side of all the brown lines (e.g. Dheneb Stone)
• "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish.

Concentric Circles/ Aesther Summoner

If you are OK with keeping things simple, the Summoner is definitely one of the easiest models to paint. This is lucky, as the game artwork shows the character to be almost translucent, or ghost-like. To keep the model interesting to the eye I decided to again do something a little bit different with the base by including a stone circle made of small pebbles. This was then further customised by adding some simple mystical symbols. Easy to do, but it made the model "my own".

After a Wraithbone undercoat:

• Skin/ hair: Contrast Apothecary White
• Bracelets: Mournfang brown, Dwarf Bronze, Auric Armour Gold (highlight)
• Staff:
• Body: Contrast Spacewolves Grey
• Head: Contrast Talassar Blue, into Contrast Aethermatic Blue.
• Everything else: (cloak, robes, leggings etc.) Contrast Magos Purple
• Base:
1. Stone circle. Do this first. Select a few stones with interesting colours and shapes. To make a pile of stones glue two or three together vertically. Paint on mystic symbols of your choice. Finally use superglue to glue pebbles onto the base in a circular design.
2. Sand/ earth: Watered down wood glue, dipped into modelling sand, then Contrast Cygor Brown (when dry!)
3. "Grass": Dab on a few areas of watered-down white glue/ wood glue, and sprinkle green modeling flock. 
4. "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish. 

Eclipse/ Nightshroud

You might think that the Nightshroud would be the simplest to paint - after all the character is basically black, inky darkness! However this makes it a bit harder to make the model interesting, and although it needs fewer colours than many of the other characters, I found it difficult to makes things stand out. To combat this I tried a simple Object Source Lighting (OSL) effect, and had another go at making a cobblestone base (not entirely successfully!).

This tutorial at lightminiatures gives a really good overview of OSL. For the sake of time I didn't use this depth of technique, but it helped me understand light and light sources better so I could then try a glow coming from the Nightshroud's raised hand and reflected in his face.

After a Wraithbone undercoat:

• Boots, gloves, hood, face, scabbard: Abaddon Black
• Tabard: Abaddon Black, then very light drybrush of Adeptus Mechanicus Grey (or other dark grey) to pick out cross-hatch pattern. Finally a dark blue (Mordian Blue) drybrush on the fringe of the tabard.
• Leggings, shirt, knee pads: Contrast Black Templar
• On knee pads then do a dark blue (Mordian Blue) drybrush.
• Knee pads: Mordian blue
• Scabbard (waist): 
• Scabbard body: Abaddon black.
• Chape (reinforced scabbard tip) and Locket (reinforced top of scabbard): Mournfang Brown, then Dwarf Bronze (highlight), then Auric Armour Gold (final highlight).
• Baldrick: Mournfang brown, then Agrax Earthshade wash, then Mournfang highlights.
• Sword and scabbard (back):
• Scabbard Body: Mournfang brown, then Agrax Earth wash. Locket:  Dwarf Bronze.
• Sword grip: Mordian blue.
• Sword pommel: Dwarf Bronze, then Auric Shining Armour (highlight)
• Drawn Sword:
• Sword cross-guard and pommel: Dwarf Bronze, then Auric Shining Armour (highlight)
• Blade: Leadbelcher, then Nuln Oil wash, finally Runefang Steel
• Cobbled base*: 
• For cobbles: Draw in using Mechanicus Standard Grey, leaving black lines between cobbles (or add black lines later). Then add some lighter layers of grey: 50/50 mix Mechanicus Grey/ Russ Grey. Finally lighter edge lines of light grey.
• Finally, add Middenland Tuft grass to taste. 
• "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish.

* For an excellent video on how to paint cobblestones please visit Terrainosaur's YouTube video here.

Bear Face (Two minis)/ Beast Tyrant

I loved doing the Vermling Beast Tyrant for two reasons. 

ONE: To do the Beast Tyrant himself I could follow the same approach as the Vermling Mindthief (with a couple of small additions.) 

TWO: The tyrant's bear is perfect for Contrast paints, which would make him very fast to do. I imagined them as old friends, and that the bear would be a companion and survivor of many battles - perhaps older than the Tyrant himself. This is why he is grey, not brown.

Beast Tyrant:

• Painted basically as with the Vermling Mindthief, in the first part of this series.
• Changed lower robe to Contrast Ork Flesh.
• Bracelets: Mournfang Brown, then Dwarf Bronze (highlight), OPTIONAL: Auric Shining Armour (highlight)
• Staff: Contrast Cygor Brown
• Tip: Contrast Blood Angels Red, with Wild Rider Red edge highlights.

Bear:

• Fur: Contrast Spacewolves Grey
• Wooden Armour: 
• Eyes: Moot Green
• Nose: Abaddon Black
• Mouth: Reikland Fleshshade (wash), teeth picked out with Wraithbone
• Wood panels (haunches, face, neck): Contrast Gore Grunta Fur
• Side panels: Contrast Gore Grunta fur (lower), Contrast Snakebite Leather (upper).
• Spikes: Leadbelcher, Nuln Oil wash, Runefang Steel (highlight)
• Saddle: Ushabti Bone, then Gryphonne Sepia or Seraphim Sepia (wash). Fringe is Contrast Ork Flesh
• Base: Watered down wood glue, dipped into modelling sand, then Contrast Cygor Brown (when dry!).  Middenland Tuft grass. "Victory lap" of Abaddon Black around rim to finish.

I hope you like the models. In the next and final post I'll add Three Spears, Music Note, Triangles, Lightning Bolt, Saw, and Cthulu.

Cheers!